VE Cruise Control fault - detailed investigation

[ibu01]

Following on from a fault on my 2011 VE Series 2 cruise control and considering the number of posts with very similar faults I decided to investigate further around what might be causing these problems. So the cruise control stalk comprises a small circuit board, primarily with 2 x sockets and 1 x 1.5 kohm resistor. Socket one is the main one from the car wiring loom and socket 2 is a small 4 pin socket with wires running up into the stalk itself. I chased down a copy of the VE Commodore wiring diagram however while the circuit itself is electrically accurate it does not really reflect the mechanical assembly of the circuit

Initial investigations showed that the red and the white wires were for the on off switch and the yellow and the white wires ( all from the small socket) are used for the set and resume functions of cruise control. Overall there are 4 x resistors in series (the 1.5K resistor on the circuit board mentioned above and 3 x small surface mount resisitors on a small circuit board located in the RES/SET area of the stalk. The this small circuit board actual forms part of the res/set switch mechanicals and is a double sided board. On one side of the board you have the switch contacts which are formed by the copper of the pcb tracks. On the reverse side of the board you have the 3 x surface mount resistors.

The issue is where the wires coming up the stalk actually connect to the small PCB. The connection terminals are riveted to the pcb and the rivets form part of the connectivity between the top and bottom layers of the pcb.

The fix will be to cut each of the black and the yellow wires and refit them , at the same time using them to provide electrical connectivity between the top and the bottom layers. HOPEFULLY I can then reassemble and refit the switch/stalk assembly.

No that I've found the area of the likely common problems there would be no requirement to disassemble the bottom portion of the stalk (ie where the main wiring loom plugs in and where the indicator/ hi/lo beams phyiscal/electrical components reside

The RES/SET portion of the switch is, in hindsight is easy enough to dismantle, at least far enough to do the required repair.

I have checked with holden dealers for a new replacement and these are currently advised as into stock MEL July 2024 however they tell the date keeps getting pushed backward.

I was reluctant to buy a replacement from a wreckers as I though the probability of a similar fault occurring would be high. I also found most of the prices to be higher than a new switch stalk.

If I can't successfully reassemble my existing switch I might be forced to go down the 2nd hand part route, however, as I now know what is highly likely causing the majority of the described similar symptom faults, and as the fix is not that invasive to get to that specific area, I'd do the repair prior to installing the 2nd hand unit.

Hope this helps someone.

CHeers

 

[Lex]

Following on from a fault on my 2011 VE Series 2 cruise control and considering the number of posts with very similar faults I decided to investigate further around what might be causing these problems. So the cruise control stalk comprises a small circuit board, primarily with 2 x sockets and 1 x 1.5 kohm resistor. Socket one is the main one from the car wiring loom and socket 2 is a small 4 pin socket with wires running up into the stalk itself. I chased down a copy of the VE Commodore wiring diagram however while the circuit itself is electrically accurate it does not really reflect the mechanical assembly of the circuit

Initial investigations showed that the red and the white wires were for the on off switch and the yellow and the white wires ( all from the small socket) are used for the set and resume functions of cruise control. Overall there are 4 x resistors in series (the 1.5K resistor on the circuit board mentioned above and 3 x small surface mount resisitors on a small circuit board located in the RES/SET area of the stalk. The this small circuit board actual forms part of the res/set switch mechanicals and is a double sided board. On one side of the board you have the switch contacts which are formed by the copper of the pcb tracks. On the reverse side of the board you have the 3 x surface mount resistors.

The issue is where the wires coming up the stalk actually connect to the small PCB. The connection terminals are riveted to the pcb and the rivets form part of the connectivity between the top and bottom layers of the pcb.

The fix will be to cut each of the black and the yellow wires and refit them , at the same time using them to provide electrical connectivity between the top and the bottom layers. HOPEFULLY I can then reassemble and refit the switch/stalk assembly.

No that I've found the area of the likely common problems there would be no requirement to disassemble the bottom portion of the stalk (ie where the main wiring loom plugs in and where the indicator/ hi/lo beams phyiscal/electrical components reside

The RES/SET portion of the switch is, in hindsight is easy enough to dismantle, at least far enough to do the required repair.

I have checked with holden dealers for a new replacement and these are currently advised as into stock MEL July 2024 however they tell the date keeps getting pushed backward.

I was reluctant to buy a replacement from a wreckers as I though the probability of a similar fault occurring would be high. I also found most of the prices to be higher than a new switch stalk.

If I can't successfully reassemble my existing switch I might be forced to go down the 2nd hand part route, however, as I now know what is highly likely causing the majority of the described similar symptom faults, and as the fix is not that invasive to get to that specific area, I'd do the repair prior to installing the 2nd hand unit.

Hope this helps someone.

CHeers

Update whether the fix was successful or not please.

 

[ibu01]

I can confirm definitely fixed the issue and now all good...
To get the switch off the stalk you need to unplug the small plug under the plastic cover at the steering column end of the stalk. This then allows the cruise control stalk to be removed gently. I gently removed a small amount of the pcb coating near the riveted terminals and the soldered both sides. I also removed and trimmed and tinned and resoldered the yellow and the black wires to the terminals. Be careful when removing the two screws which hold the switch assembly together at the column end as it can come apart easily. Not overly difficult to reassemble but it did take a few attempts.. otherwise pretty straight forward.

 

[Lex]

I can confirm definitely fixed the issue and now all good...
To get the switch off the stalk you need to unplug the small plug under the plastic cover at the steering column end of the stalk. This then allows the cruise control stalk to be removed gently. I gently removed a small amount of the pcb coating near the riveted terminals and the soldered both sides. I also removed and trimmed and tinned and resoldered the yellow and the black wires to the terminals. Be careful when removing the two screws which hold the switch assembly together at the column end as it can come apart easily. Not overly difficult to reassemble but it did take a few attempts.. otherwise pretty straight forward.

Thanks for that. Other ve owners would like that it's repairable.
I don't suppose you have any photos of the repairs to post up.
It's handy having pics to compare.

 

[ibu01]

HI - unfortunately no photos available, however if any member wants to DM me with a question re the process, I'm happy to help. Cheers

 

[Skylarking]

HI - unfortunately no photos available, however if any member wants to DM me with a question re the process, I'm happy to help. Cheers

Copy the PM question and your response to this thread so all forum members can benefit from your knowledge and experience in fixing the stalk switch