Tools and techniques for auto wiring

[Fu Manchu]

Bloods and the crimps.

 

[Immortality]

I look at what OEM does, what motor sport does and aviation etc. If crimping is good enough for them it'll work for me. It's easier than soldering too.

 

[lout]

i only crimp for a temporary repair
long term a good quality solder join in shrink tube
i know in theory a solder join can crack
but in practice have never had a failure in 40 odd years

 

[VT2Commie]

And if you use these in a car you probably deserve a good arse kicking!

And if you use these......well you need to be shot !!!

 

[Drawnnite]

Solder or crimping, both have their respective places.

Have worked in all sorts of the elec industry (including some auto-leccy based stuff for a while).
Some places are fussy, where you need to have calibrated gear that is brand/model specific as that's what the specs have called for (Rail and Aviation are some of these). Other times its special style crimpers for plugs like Deutsch items.
In my field now we are regulated on what type of lugs and other connections we can make, so it does make sense the more you do it.

In the auto side, if it was splicing on or for the most part, connecting up, it was always soldering, shrink, tape etc. But you had to know the right way to make the joins.
Then there was also many pins or connections that were purely crimped.

Even now in the elec industry I come across everything from Soldered plugs to special ones with torque bolts that snap at the right torque. Crimps that have to be double crimped and so on.

It all comes down to manufacturers specs, follow them and instructions and you'll get the best outcome.

As for specific tooling. We used to have some Split conduit tools for putting split conduit on many meters of cabling. I'll have to grab a photo. Made the job an absolute dream and didn't cut into the cables.
Instead of hours of work, it would take minutes.

 

[chrisp]

It great to see automotive wiring techniques being discussed. I have always been somewhat perplexed by the auto-electric industry in general. I’m specifically referring to the service and repair trades, not the manufacturing side.

If I have issues work panel work or paint finish (such as a prang or carpark scuff), I can take my car to a panel shop and it will generally be done to a quality which is as good as new. If I was particular and willing to pay, I could probably get a typical panel shop to get the panel lines and paintwork to a standard that’s better than new. i.e. the skill and know how is available, it’s just whether I want to pay for it.

If I have engine or driveline issue, I can get them repaired to as good as new and indistinguishable from how it left the factory. Again, if I have deep pockets, I could probably get the work done to better than factory.

I suppose I’m using a benchmark of repair work should (or could) be done to a standard that is indistinguishable from the original.

But if I go to an auto electrics place (or at least to the ones I’ve been to) and they do work on the wiring, it very plain to see. I don’t know if it’s just me or just the few places I’d been to, but the standard of aftermarket automotive wiring is far from the standard of OEM wiring. I have great concerns when I see wiring that uses the crimp-on insulated spade connectors for example. They certainly don’t look OEM. And while the crimp connection itself can be fine, typical aftermarket spade connectors aren’t intended to be disconnected and reconnected more than a few times (hell, most a pretty loose after one or two disconnects). Nor are they moisture proof, so they are prone to intermittent issues down the track.

So it’s great to see the topic of automotive wiring being discussed!

 

[lout]

back in the early 80's a friends dad bought a WB caprice
he asked me to fit driving lights
so i used VB commodore switch and colour code wiring
when he took it to holden for service
they said it was the first wb they had seen with factory driving lights

 

[Drawnnite]

As mentioned earlier.
Homemade tooling for split conduit covering longer cables and looms.
This one is for 10mm split, can make other sizes with different tubing.

The intact tube is 1/4 tube and the chopped is 3/8

The split goes over the full round and the cables get fed via the half round bit.
Just pull both through together.

 

[uglyoldfatbastard]

All interesting reading here. Coming from the motorcycle world back in the early 70's I have seen wires twisted together and then wrapped with electrical tape go for years
However not the best way to do things but if it gets you moving it's all good.

Nowadays I when I rewire or work on bikes I generally use solid pin Deutsch connectors and I have the proper tool for doing them and was not a cheap tool when I bought it. I have the crimpers and connectors here for many of the Delphi connectors which Holden use and are also common on a lot of bikes as well as a few others.

I see some people are against soldering wires and bring up the aviation industry that they only crimp and I do understand that but a wire that has been stripped and twisted together correctly and soldered with the correct wattage iron and using the correct solder (love my lead) will hold up just fine on a motor vehicle and seen some go for over 50 years without a break. It's all about doing things correctly and using the correct tools and the correct gauge of wire as well.

For anyone who wants any TXL (XLPE) automotive wire I can recommend Rapid Cables in Qld for good quality wire and good service. Everything from Tesa tape, heat shrink, connectors and a whole lot more give them a look and no I don't work or have anything to do with them other than been buying stuff from them for years.

TXL AUTOMOTIVE PRIMARY COPPER WIRE

TXL AUTOMOTIVE PRIMARY COPPER WIRE

www.rapidcables.com.au