Tools and techniques for auto wiring

[lmoengnr]

For regular soldering yes, that's correct. The Raychem and TE solder sleeves are really really different from the cheap ebay ones though, I assume they (the Raychem ones at least) comply to some kind of aviation standard more easily as they end up being closer to being potted and completely sealed which changes things slightly.

[URL]https://www.steinair.com/product/18-solder-sleeve-wpigtail/[/URL]
[URL]http://shop.avionics.co.nz/m83519[/URL]
[URL]https://www.pilotshop.com/catalog/elpages/edmosoldersleeve.php[/URL]
[URL]https://shop.midwestpanels.com/product/raychem-solder-sleeve-125/[/URL]
[URL]https://shop.boeing.com/aviation-supply/p/D142-51=7S[/URL]
[URL]https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/soldering-sleeves_11-07902.php[/URL]

EDIT: One of those sites has an interesting document from CASA about solder sleeves. Pretty damned detailed: https://www.steinair.com/wp-content...thiness-Bulletin-AWB02-009-SOLDER-SLEEVES.pdf

Interesting video, must be for general aviation, as it wouldn't comply with Boeing or Airbus wiring standards.
A solder repair on aircraft wiring would only happen at an outstation that didn't have 'compliant' crimpers.
Avionics engineers aren't allowed to use their own crimpers, as crimpers are considered 'controlled tooling' and need to be regularly calibrated.

 

[the_boozer]

View attachment 247765
These are crap!

Buy a proper crimper the wire will break before a Utilux brand crimplink will let go.
After you crimp you should be pulling on the joint to make sure it doesn't come apart.

 

[Pollushon]

I used to be on the solder train, many, many moons ago but it became clear and experience has proven to me that crimping is the best option by far. Just think of it as a cold solder

 

[_R_J_K_]

Interesting video, must be for general aviation, as it wouldn't comply with Boeing or Airbus wiring standards.
A solder repair on aircraft wiring would only happen at an outstation that didn't have 'compliant' crimpers.
Avionics engineers aren't allowed to use their own crimpers, as crimpers are considered 'controlled tooling' and need to be regularly calibrated.

From the quick googling I did last night they appear on the Boeing store (link in that post) and make a few appearances in some Airbus bulletins/manuals. They seem to be mainly used for joining shielding or ground wires to fly leads or common grounds more than joining wires end to end or joining high current stuff. I suspect they'd make a loom much more compact where a lot of that stuff terminates or branches out of a bundle.

For fun I did look up the most expensive crimp tools on RS and Mouser a while back, I know they're for industry and the money is in the standardisation and testing and development, but damn. And to think I thought the genuine Deutsch crimpers were expensive.

 

[someguy360]

I just bought an 800pc set of the solder shrink joiners and have been absolutely loving them so far.

I'm extending the engine harness in the car for my smoothing project and these have been a godsend when I've got about 50 odd wires to do (I know it's not the best idea to cut/extend looms) but I really just cbf repinning the whole thing and running fresh wiring which triples the cost for a loom thats not going to be a forever loom anyway. This looms also been hacked up over the years from LPG systems that are no longer there etc (not to mention being a little char grilled)

Down the line when I switch to a Haltech for better nitrous control etc I'll run a new universal loom and pin it out correctly.

 

[Fu Manchu]

I'm gonna sticky this at the top of the section

I’m glad you included the videos by Dave from Haltech.

 

[Fu Manchu]

HP Tuners will have mentioned in their videos to always crimp wires. They acknowledge the argument and still suggest crimping which is always used in motorsport wiring.

 

[Fu Manchu]

These links might also have helpful info
https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/automotive-electrical-connections-basics.286078/

Has the same video but some extra posts that are a bit different to what’s included so far
https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/electrical-connector-plug-pin-removal.286050/

 

[Fu Manchu]

Also this on Earthing/grounding

 

[Hole Denn]

The solder killer for automotive use more so than bonding is vibration cracking the join apart. Apart from being really difficult to standardise and make a repeatable solder join, the solder can crack in unpredictable ways if it wicks up the wire. There's also not a lot of options for strain relief with soldering. Typically not a problem in the middle of the odd wire, but bunched in a tightly packed loom it's problematic.

You took my post #9 out of context which said
I have had paid work experience with metals and soldering products
theres is nothing wrong with soldering,
just that you can't be certain it's chemically bonded fully and clean from impurities and alloy/welds are affected by the elements more so than a good tight clean simple easy crimp.


Yes again Nothing wrong with soldering or/and crimping for certain situations. Both have their places.

Issue for soldering is the heat damage to copper wires for conductivity/oxidisation, the contact/weld area and the problematic reation to oxygen over time with copper and types of fluxes used and surety of 100% coverage and lastly bond/weld strength.

Some not many try to overcome/miminise some aspects by pre tinning pieces before finally soldering together especially in large multi wire applications like you mentioned, it doesn’t work long term, just makes more areas liable to strength and conductivity issues and so on.

I am not disagreeing with you as I use both methods where appropriate and don’t favour 1 over the other. Both methods have their good uses.
It would be nice if you use all my statements and not just 1 line taken out of context.