ABS Module Issue? LH Front Caliper Blocked

[guitarballs]

Hi all, I'm hoping someone has a simple(ish) solution for this.

I just replaced the pads in both front calipers and opened the bleeders to push the pistons back. So all went well, no dramas with that part.
Then when I went to bleed them, nothing comes out of the front passenger side. Not even air. The front driver's side bled fine.

So I thought there was a blockage in the line or something. I've traced as far the ABS module and still no fluid comes out. Yet the line from the drivers side to the module flows fine.

I don't think I should have been opening those lines on the top of the module anyway, so I may have caused more harm? I don't know.

I didn't even think about ABS tbh.
The last car I had to bleed brakes on was my HQ about 20 years ago.

Everything I've been able to find on this suggests using the auto bleed function on a scan tool or something. Is there another, more old school way? Or a dirt cheap, auto bleed scan tool maybe? I doubt I'll have much use for it after this.

This VY is far from a show car so I'm happy to try anything that works really. Like the good ol hammer to the starter motor trick I had to do with my old HQ's.

Thanks heaps.

 

[lmoengnr]

Have you removed the bleed nipple to make sure it's not blocked?

 

[guitarballs]

Have you removed the bleed nipple to make sure it's not blocked?

Hey. Thanks Imoengnr.

I did yes. Removed it completely.

But I don’t think it's getting past the abs module anyway because loosening the line there still does nothing.

But loosening the driver side line next to that one squirts out fine.
The pedal goes straight to the floor.
But the pedal doesn't budge for the LHF.

It's like it's completely blocked up somewhere inside the module.

Cheers

 

[Fu Manchu]

It likely will mean a second hand module would be needed.

Can you get compressed air down the line from where it attaches to the ABS through to where the calliper is? Maybe grab a can of compressed air from Hammerbarn or Jaycar if you don’t have a compressor.

You’ll be doing an ABS bleed anyway so to avoid having the ABS module reflashed to your car (is that needed on VY?) maybe swap your module onto the second hand ABS.

 

[lout]

fault is most likely in the hydraulic part of abs module
vy abs electronic is plug and play, but need the correct part number
and as mentioned will need an abs bleed after
which requires a bi-directional scan tool

 

[lmoengnr]

Have you checked that the caliper piston isn't jammed after you retracted it?

 

[guitarballs]

Thanks guys.

So it isn't looking great I guess.

It likely will mean a second hand module would be needed.

Can you get compressed air down the line from where it attaches to the ABS through to where the calliper is? Maybe grab a can of compressed air from Hammerbarn or Jaycar if you don’t have a compressor.

You’ll be doing an ABS bleed anyway so to avoid having the ABS module reflashed to your car (is that needed on VY?) maybe swap your module onto the second hand ABS.

I do have a compressor. Not sure what sort of fitting I'd have to use to get a seal for that.

Do you mean shoot air from the caliper end into the module? Or remove the line from the module and shoot the other way? Cause I don't think there's an issue with that line.
If there is, then I guess I'd have another problem. The problem looks to be at the module.

I'll see if I can add a pic here of what I've tried when bleeding with the missus on pedal duties.

fault is most likely in the hydraulic part of abs module
vy abs electronic is plug and play, but need the correct part number
and as mentioned will need an abs bleed after
which requires a bi-directional scan tool

Thanks @lout

Yeah it's looking that way. Bugger.

Well if there's no way to clear the blockage or open whatever has slammed shut, I'll have to find another one. There's one on ebay actually for $99. That is fine but will I also need the scan tool? If so, does anyone happen to know where I can get an el cheapo bi directional?

I've had a look around on aliexpress and ebay etc, but the cheap crappy ones mostly seem to be read only. It honestly isn't worth it for me to spend $300 on a tool for one use only. The car is barely worth that much. I only paid $1500 for it 10 years ago to cart my kayak around lol.

I think I read somewhere that the engine should be off when bleeding ABS brakes. If that's the case then, well I've never bled a system with ABS before and didn't know that. So yeah, the engine was running. I probably screwed it up by doing something stupid like that as I don't think I had this issue before I swapped out the pads. The car has been sitting unused for over a year though so not sure.

Thanks all for your help.

 

[Fu Manchu]

You can’t get cheapo bidirectional tools.
You’ll need to call a mobile mechanic.

 

[Fu Manchu]

I was under the impression you already had the pipe off the ABS. Just grab the air gun on the compressor. Shove it in the end near the ABS end of the pipe with it detached from the calliper. Give it a blast.
Unless you are certain it’s the ABS.

Once the ABS is done, a fricken expensive scan tool is required to activate the ABS in a certain way to bleed the air from it. It can’t be done any other way.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Cool username by the way