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Vz alloytec choppy acceleration

Muzza0100

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How many chuggas come before choo choo? That's the inside joke between me n my vz right now.. Runs fine cold but when its at normal temp going uphill it jerks continuously in no set rhythm unless i give it enough toe to change gear.. and if i give it half a go from a stop its litteraly like this " 1st second of acceleration... i think i can, 2 second.. yes i can and by the 3rd second im half way to the bloody moon with normal performance kicking in.. Or chugga chugga choo choo as i think is more accurate pissing me tf off so i gotta laugh about it.. Anyone had the same issue before? 6cyl alloytec granny spec done 175xxxkm runs great otherwise
 

Fu Manchu

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Check fuel pressure, test for vacuum leaks. Can be done electronically with specialised equipment and mad skills or a physical test using smoke.

Could be failing coils or cheap imitation plugs.

Could be a bad injector/s.

There will be set fault codes in there from this. Some live data from a decent scan tool needed as well.
 

Muzza0100

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Test with smoke sounds more appropriate for me currently haha living rough.. Ideas? Currently isn't showing an engine light so was tossing up wether to pay supercheap to scan for me..? Last mechanic i went to for fuel filter n 10k service didn't find any engine issues, sounded to me when i asked him that he didn't bother looking and apparently didn't notice while (probably not even) test driving it as asked..
 

Fu Manchu

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It’s not going to be a simple fix. If you lack tools and skills,
Smoke testers can be expensive to buy. I made one. Still needs something to blow the smoke into the intake under low pressure.

Paying super cheap to scan is not going to yield a solution. It is going to require a bidirectional scan tool to poke around in the cars network, look at live data.

There may well be a mechanical fault at play as well. Finding those electronically takes a lot of skill and when you find it, it won’t be cheap.

I’ll dig out my home made solution to a smoke tester that has been successful many times. I’ll post up later.

I’m giving this advice because you mentioned you are living rough. Diagnosing VZ’s and onwards is not easy or cheap.
 

Muzza0100

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I appreciate your feedback especially given my circumstances as ive seen you nail other stuff around here including a couple issues ive had in the past fu.. Litteraly got basic tools n shared space currently but guidance is a plus.. Most mechanics I've found haven't seemed to give much of a fk tho even tho i mention i need this car to get me and my grandmother around day to day.. Not like i flog the car which is also making me bit miffed.. Is there any auto box issues that may seem more appropriate? As now its worse seems to come from foot area by feel, have supposedly had replaced 2nd hand box diff and ecu only 9 months n 25k-km back max
 

Muzza0100

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Also whole engine bay seems abnormally warm now and under under front half of car pissing hot air warmed up not new however had an overheating issue got air out of cooling system no longer shooting up.. .. Only cleaned maf n throttle body which bought low end acceleration back to norm currently
 

Muzza0100

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Would it be worth getting my own scan tool to run against googled specs? If yes please recommend
 

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If you wanted a decent scan tool it’s the Vident i400au. That’s the starting point really and they come in at around $300-$400. This will do almost everything on the car. Almost. New keys, live data,

If it is unusually warm under there, maybe check out the cats. Make sure one is not blocked. With limited equipment, the only tool to help would be a laser thermometer. The ones you point at something and it measures temp. $30 from Bunnings.

Get temps before and after the cats.

Also bleed the cooling system as per the walkthrough I did in the HowTo section. Ensure there’s no trapped air making things hotter.
 

Muzza0100

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So bad news... All my upper vacuum lines / hoses are old and seized seemingly to the point i try to remove and they fall apart almost as if made with sand.. As attempted to remove the main 2 back of manifold disintegrated.. Throttle body connection tough as hell like locked in place as are most all ive tried.. My fingers with a flathead cant take them.. Wtf do i do now with 2 snapped hoses? Probably snap more in the morning..
 
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