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VR V8 Fuel Tank Resto with KBS Sealer

LXCHEV

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Hi all,

Very keen on some opinions on this one - particularly from anyone who may have attempted the same thing... See photos below to aid with the discussion....

I'm mid-way through restoring my VR V8 tank. It'd been seriously neglected by the previous owner who drove on LPG all the time. Long story short, it was not a pretty site. When I first removed it from the car, it nearly got taken to the tip - the built up rust and crud (and stench) was quite overwhelming. However I persevered and after having the top cut off and giving the inside a really good clean - it's actually in excellent condition.

However to really protect it now and get another 30 years out of it, I'm going to use the KBS 3 step fuel tank sealer kit.

And here's my dilemma:

Option 1: Weld the tank back together first and then go through the process of sealing the inside of the tank (essentially, pour the sealer in and swish it around for 100% coverage). This is the recommended approach for most simple tanks. What I'm concerned about though is the swirl pot entry and having sealer build up or block this area. The KBS guys said with a tank such as this, I would need to blow compressed air through the return line/breather pipes etc during the process, to ensure nothing blocks them. They also commented that the sealer doesn't really like sticking to plastic. I'm not sure if that's good or bad.

Option 2: Coat the tank and lid with the product first (brushing it on, which would allow for a perfect job around the swirl pot, and stopping an inch short of where the weld will be around the top area of the tank (this is what the KBS guys suggest, should I choose this option). Once the tank is welded, seal the outer weld, and then just live with it, knowing the inside of the tank has a small unprotected section. I'm sure it'd last a very long time, but will I sleep at night?

Has anyone else used the KBS sealer on one of these tanks with the swirl pot?

VR tank 01.jpg


VR tank 02.jpg


VR tank 03.jpg


VR tank 04.jpg


This last photo shows my main area of concern. If you look closely, the return line connection is not actually a direct connection to the swirl pot. It merely aims the stream of fuel at the inlet. Some fuel will slosh back into the tank, and some fuel will be directed into the swirl pot. The plastic connection has quite a small opening too. I'm not at all confident that I could control how much sealer would settle here, if the tank was welded back together, and I'm just pouring the sealer in through the filler neck and then rolling it around and hoping for the best.

VR tank 05.jpg


Cheers,
Brett.
 

gtrboyy

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Unclip tabs to swirl pot,paint inside tank then have it welded up.

Tbh doubt you'd have that issue of tank varnishing up again as long as it's not left for long periods for fuel to break down & cake into internals again.

I wanted to buy efi hardware fuel tank bulkhead thave it welded to top of tank so can gain decent access inside tank if want to clean or modify or just to get at that impossible return line hose.

Fuel-Tank-Bulkhead-Large.jpg


https://www.efihardware.com/products/2912/Bulkhead-Fuel-Surge-Tank-Aluminium
 

woteva

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The white return part does detach from the swirl pot and easier to re-install with the return hose fitted.
 

gtrboyy

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Feels like impossible task to do with sausage finger gorilla hands
 

Fu Manchu

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On my VP tank, I always wished the tank extended across to the other side and was another ⅓ the capacity.
VY and VZ crewman have a simple pump setup that can draw fuel across the drive shaft tunnel hump.
 

woteva

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Feels like impossible task to do with sausage finger gorilla hands
I have an older/stiff coat hanger that is bent up to do the job. no way i can get my hand in there.
 

LXCHEV

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I do like the idea of the bulkhead from EFI Hardware - I'll look at that in 20 years when the tank is due for another refresh!

Never realised that the swirlpot unclips from the tank - will check that out tonight.

And after speaking with several different people - I've decided I'll go with the approach of sealing up the tank first and then having it welded back together. Will share some photos once I'm there...
 

LXCHEV

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Unclip tabs to swirl pot

Have you managed to 'unclip' one of these swirlpots before? I've had a look but can't quite work out how to do this without breaking the pot. It's all very tightly secured. Is the idea to somehow pop the pot out of the clips, or lever and bend the clips out of the way to release it's hold?
 

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They look like should be able to bend out of the way BUT if you think you'll break plastic pot do as above stated detach white plastic bit for return hose block hole paint if worried paint will get in there.

I can't even get fingers in sender unit hole no way I've even touched swirl pot hence wanting tank bulkhead to get gorilla hands in there & service tank if needed.

Got a vh commo tank in shed that I pressure washed then purged with exhaust gas several years ago to be welded...never sealed it or nothing & still dead clean inside as long no moisture or anything gets to it.
 

LXCHEV

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Since I'm going to paint (seal) this with a brush now whilst the tank is still open, I'm not at all concerned about the sealer blocking anything... I'll be able to navigate around that easily. I was more interested in removing the pot purely to clean underneath it and seal accordingly. But I think I'll just leave it alone for fear of damaging anything!

That's good to hear about your VH tank - just keeping the moisture away is obviously the key.

Cheers.
 
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