EYY
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- VS Statesman
The last time I started my VS to move it, I heard a strange grinding/squeeling noise. The sound was intermittent but very noticeable from inside the car. Opened the bonnet to find the A/C compressor engaged, despite the a/c being off lol.
Thought I'd post a few pics of the process of removing the clutch for repair. The Holden repair manual doesn't mention whether it's possible to do the job in-car or without degassing the system, and shows no exploded view of the compressor or images of the removal process.
Firstly, the fan needs to be removed, as does the shroud. Unbolt the fan and sit it in the shroud and remove both together. Reinsert one bolt into the waterpump to keep the holes in the pulley aligned with the pump. The alternator and p/s belts do not need to be loosened/removed, especially if you have the double row pulley.
Next, use a 14mm socket to remove the nut on the shaft of the A/C compressor. Loosen the cap head screws using a 4mm allen key whilst the belt is still fitted. Remove the belt and then fully remove the screws and pulley assembly.
To remove the clutch/drive plate, you may need to use a small steering wheel style puller. The thread size is 1/4"UNC. I used a few old 304 rocker cover bolts for this.
As you can see, these pictures show result of clutch failure. The clutch had fallen apart and caused serious damage. Luckily I do have a spare compressor to take parts off. The front seal on this compressor is leaking, as can be seen in the pics, but I'm hoping clutch replacement will give it just a little more life.
You can then remove the circlip that retains the rearmost part of the clutch assy. You may need to use a 3 jaw puller to remove the rear of the clutch as the bearing is an interference fit with the boss on the compressor.
Note that there is a small shim fitted to the shaft as seen in the pic below. The airgap between the clutch housing and clutch plate is set using this shim. AIRGAP SPEC: 0.4-0.65MM
From here, you can replace clutch components as required. The bearing is an NTK 35BD219DU. The OEX equivalent, I believe, is an OEX CLX402. The bearing size is 35 x 55 x 20.
In the pic below, damaged clutch is at the top, good clutch is at the bottom.
Hopefully this helps somebody!
Thought I'd post a few pics of the process of removing the clutch for repair. The Holden repair manual doesn't mention whether it's possible to do the job in-car or without degassing the system, and shows no exploded view of the compressor or images of the removal process.
Firstly, the fan needs to be removed, as does the shroud. Unbolt the fan and sit it in the shroud and remove both together. Reinsert one bolt into the waterpump to keep the holes in the pulley aligned with the pump. The alternator and p/s belts do not need to be loosened/removed, especially if you have the double row pulley.
Next, use a 14mm socket to remove the nut on the shaft of the A/C compressor. Loosen the cap head screws using a 4mm allen key whilst the belt is still fitted. Remove the belt and then fully remove the screws and pulley assembly.
To remove the clutch/drive plate, you may need to use a small steering wheel style puller. The thread size is 1/4"UNC. I used a few old 304 rocker cover bolts for this.
As you can see, these pictures show result of clutch failure. The clutch had fallen apart and caused serious damage. Luckily I do have a spare compressor to take parts off. The front seal on this compressor is leaking, as can be seen in the pics, but I'm hoping clutch replacement will give it just a little more life.
You can then remove the circlip that retains the rearmost part of the clutch assy. You may need to use a 3 jaw puller to remove the rear of the clutch as the bearing is an interference fit with the boss on the compressor.
Note that there is a small shim fitted to the shaft as seen in the pic below. The airgap between the clutch housing and clutch plate is set using this shim. AIRGAP SPEC: 0.4-0.65MM
From here, you can replace clutch components as required. The bearing is an NTK 35BD219DU. The OEX equivalent, I believe, is an OEX CLX402. The bearing size is 35 x 55 x 20.
In the pic below, damaged clutch is at the top, good clutch is at the bottom.
Hopefully this helps somebody!