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Tools for cam change

Klajd

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I'm looking to upgrade the cam on my vy v6 and just wanted to get an idea of the tools needed. Cheers
 

someguy360

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Various
* Spanners
* Sockets
* Fuel line disconnect tool
* Harmonic balancer puller (make sure you get the right one for an ecotec so you don't wreck it)
* big ass breaker bar (to crack the nut on the balancer)
* Portable blow torch/butane torch (to help crack the big ass nut on the balancer if it's stubborn).
* Torque wrench
* Inlet manifold gaskets, timing cover gaskets, water pump gaskets, rocker cover gaskets.
* Coolant (you'll need to drain the system to take the water pump and inlet manifold off).
* Oil (you'll want to change the oil as some of the coolant will get puked down the valley into the sump).
* Double row timing chain (don't use the OEM one on an aftermarket cam, you'll be in for a bad time).
* Time and patience.

If your doing the valve springs which is highly highly recommended when increasing overall valve lift with an aftermarket cam you'll want an air compressor and a fitting to go into the spark plug holes to keep the valves up once you take the springs off, otherwise they'll just drop into the combustion chamber once you take the spring off. You'll also need a valve spring compressor.

For a beginner thats never done the job before I'd say allow 12-15 hours of solid labour and googling/youtube to get it all done.

You also need a little bit of mechanical knowledge, you need to know what top dead centre is, understand how valvetrain geometry works for setting lifter preload/making sure you have the right length pushrods for the job etc. It's not just a bolt in and let her rip kinda job, theres a bit of science behind cam swaps.

Don't forget you'll also need a tune afterwards so budget another $1k or so to get it tuned, depending on the cam the car may not even start without a tune to suit and if it does it won't run well.
 
Last edited:

Klajd

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2021
Messages
44
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Queensland
Members Ride
VY
* Spanners
* Sockets
* Fuel line disconnect tool
* Harmonic balancer puller (make sure you get the right one for an ecotec so you don't wreck it)
* big ass breaker bar (to crack the nut on the balancer)
* Portable blow torch/butane torch (to help crack the big ass nut on the balancer if it's stubborn).
* Torque wrench
* Inlet manifold gaskets, timing cover gaskets, water pump gaskets, rocker cover gaskets.
* Coolant (you'll need to drain the system to take the water pump and inlet manifold off).
* Oil (you'll want to change the oil as some of the coolant will get puked down the valley into the sump).
* Double row timing chain (don't use the OEM one on an aftermarket cam, you'll be in for a bad time).
* Time and patience.

If your doing the valve springs which is highly highly recommended when increasing overall valve lift with an aftermarket cam you'll want an air compressor and a fitting to go into the spark plug holes to keep the valves up once you take the springs off, otherwise they'll just drop into the combustion chamber once you take the spring off. You'll also need a valve spring compressor.

For a beginner thats never done the job before I'd say allow 12-15 hours of solid labour and googling/youtube to get it all done.

You also need a little bit of mechanical knowledge, you need to know what top dead centre is, understand how valvetrain geometry works for setting lifter preload/making sure you have the right length pushrods for the job etc. It's not just a bolt in and let her rip kinda job, theres a bit of science behind cam swaps.

Don't forget you'll also need a tune afterwards so budget another $1k or so to get it tuned, depending on the cam the car may not even start without a tune to suit and if it does it won't run well.
Thanks man, this is super useful.
 

losh1971

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I've seen the damage those pullers can cause to a Commodore balancer. You can try, they are hit and miss, and you may end up in tears. Rather than use that one use a $20 three jaw. It will wreck the pulley but you can then replace it with a performance one by Powerbond.
 
H

harrop.senator

Guest
I've had success with those cheaps ones just get the right bolts. Most people wreck them using M6? I think it is. Pretty sure it's 1/4" unf but Google it.

I'd be removing heads , shaving the heads and testing them , springs , locks , retainers ,valve seals , recutting and cleaning valves if it were me.
 

losh1971

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Search for Commodore harmonic balancer puller. I don't know how to attach a picture from my clipboard or I would post one up
 

losh1971

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I've had success with those cheaps ones just get the right bolts. Most people wreck them using M6? I think it is. Pretty sure it's 1/4" unf but Google it.
Yep they sometimes work and sometimes don't, it's hit and miss. No use spending $100 on one though as they can be bought at SCA cheaper for a Toldeo one.
I've actually also found that Toolpro or SCA brand can't remember which are exactly the same as Toledo. I don't know for sure if they are the same but they sure as look identical.
 

Klajd

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I've had success with those cheaps ones just get the right bolts. Most people wreck them using M6? I think it is. Pretty sure it's 1/4" unf but Google it.

I'd be removing heads , shaving the heads and testing them , springs , locks , retainers ,valve seals , recutting and cleaning valves if it were me.
yeah, im picking up a set of heads and upgraded crow cam valve springs on sunday and will be porting them.
 

losh1971

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Go easy on the porting. V6 heads don't need much just some pocket porting and tidying up is often enough.
 
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