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Supercharging L36

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One thing not mentioned is that the L67 is externally balanced.

So you can't just bung on a L67 balancer as it will throw the balance off.
I think "shouldn't" is the appropriate term. People have been doing top swaps for years, how many do you think took the rotating assemblies out to be balanced? How good is the factory balance tolerances?

Both the ecotec and L67 are externally balanced. The L67 balance weights are different because of the heavier pistons/rods used.

You might notice a vibration you didn't have before or you might not.
 

shane_3800

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I think "shouldn't" is the appropriate term. People have been doing top swaps for years, how many do you think took the rotating assemblies out to be balanced? How good is the factory balance tolerances?

Both the ecotec and L67 are externally balanced. The L67 balance weights are different because of the heavier pistons/rods used.

You might notice a vibration you didn't have before or you might not.

I once worked with a guy that used to rattle wheel nuts up super tight, wayyyy over tightened. His argument was when I pulled him up on it, that because he used a torque wrench once on his dads trailer and the wheel fell off, all torque wrenches are useless and he makes sure wheels stay tight.
I just walked away.
Just because someone writes on the net that they did a blower swap and all is hunk dory, is not confirmation that running an external balanced crank pully on an internally balanced engine is a good idea.
 

vc commodore

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I once worked with a guy that used to rattle wheel nuts up super tight, wayyyy over tightened. His argument was when I pulled him up on it, that because he used a torque wrench once on his dads trailer and the wheel fell off, all torque wrenches are useless and he makes sure wheels stay tight.
I just walked away.
Just because someone writes on the net that they did a blower swap and all is hunk dory, is not confirmation that running an external balanced crank pully on an internally balanced engine is a good idea.

And what makes what you wrote correct, especially when you have written in another thread about hardened pushrods and pushrod guides are crap...Or so you heard....

Really, anything you write is to be taken with extreme caution.....
 

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I once worked with a guy that used to rattle wheel nuts up super tight, wayyyy over tightened. His argument was when I pulled him up on it, that because he used a torque wrench once on his dads trailer and the wheel fell off, all torque wrenches are useless and he makes sure wheels stay tight.
I just walked away.
Just because someone writes on the net that they did a blower swap and all is hunk dory, is not confirmation that running an external balanced crank pully on an internally balanced engine is a good idea.

The ecotec is a externally balanced engine just like the L67 so I'm not sure what you are on about.
 

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What's the best way of going about this?
One thing not mentioned is that the L67 is externally balanced.

So you can't just bung on a L67 balancer as it will throw the balance off.
 

TobyVS

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The ecotec is a externally balanced engine just like the L67 so I'm not sure what you are on about.
What do you reccomend I do about the balancing? You seem to be the most knowledgeable person I've talked to about this by far
 

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What's the best way of going about this?

Either get the fully balance checked.
Or use a aftermarket balancer.

I'm not entirely sure about the weight difference, the flex plate has a big weight on it.
I would assume the balancer either has a weight on it or it's drilled out.
If you can find a shop that has the capability to throw both pulleys on a balancer then you could just adjust the weight to match.
 

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The after market balancers are to suit the L67. No point getting a ecotec balancer that doesn't have the extra drive hub for the supercharger. Fairly sure Powerbond no longer does the race balancers to suit ecotec with the double drive hub.

A mate of mine bought a VS Calais L67, we hurt it tuning it (knocked a bearing out of it). When it was stripped down it was discovered that someone had already killed the original L67 and had done a top swap on a ecotec and then sold it. From driving it you would never have known it was a top swapped ecotec and there were no signs it had had any balancing work done. The motor got hurt because of the higher compression ecotec motor running a L67 tune on higher boost and the owner requesting more timing be added.

I can't comment on what is best as I've not personally done it but have experienced a motor that had it done.

If you want some really good advice talk to Barry @ Brushworks Slick Sixes. He's the L67 guru. You can find him on Facebook. He's also a member here but I don't believe he come online very often so best to try him via Facebook.

The Powerbond 5% OD race balancer is my preferred balancer, I've run these on a number of cars. Not cheap however.

Actually, talk to Powerbond and see what they stock. This is dated from 2017 so I don't know if it's still relevant.
 

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I'm not entirely sure about the weight difference, the flex plate has a big weight on it.
I would assume the balancer either has a weight on it or it's drilled out.
If you can find a shop that has the capability to throw both pulleys on a balancer then you could just adjust the weight to match.

OEM balancer has extra mass added on the back side of the balancer. I've still got a old L67 balancer in the garage unfortunately I don't have a ecotec one for comparison.
WhatsApp Image 2024-04-17 at 14.12.21_97cb5159.jpg


The after market balancers have the drilled centre hub.
PB607-W-NEW.jpg
 

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If you're going to boost an L36 either Raptor or Tonyz turbo it. In both instances, assuming DIY, add a fuel pump, reg, some ancillaries and a tune, you're done. You can pull it off for under 7(ish)k. A M90 blower will leave you feeling underwhelmed for the stuffing around and money. Good luck finding heads that don't need welding

This was a 18psi Raptor blown, 12 second unopened Eco. Second hand it owed me 5k. Eco's once were 400 bucks and 3 hours labour

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