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Scary moment in my Ute.....

gtrboyy

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Thought lsd was standard on utes from vr onwards or was it only s packs?
Maybe yours is worn out last one I bought was from 99 vs povo pack had lsd.


Lol single spinner in ute is dangerous as fcuk especially empty tray on hill or up driveway in wet....also dry if heavy 304 up front which is why cant let people borrow my gutted out 304 vp ute that feels quicker with bit of weight in back of it.
 

Drawnnite

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Might also be worthwhile seeing a Diff Shop and getting a price from them.

Not standard in the low end ones I assume
My VS (00) came with a single spinner. Put the LSD in it later on (and then a rebuilt one from a shop another time).

Out of curiosity, what would happen if you were to drag the handbrake a little bit in that situation?
A bit more pressure to stop it spinning and all that.
 

Fu Manchu

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I had LSD in my VP ute. It was fantastic. I also had an LSD rear axle. Yeah the wheels would still slip but it was far more predictable. Was nice to drive on gravel.
 

AmericanGuyInAUte

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That will certainly do the trick.

Whilst the job isn't difficult, unless you have the right parts to adjust the gear backlash it can be difficult to get it right.

But basically, drain the oil (and whilst that drains) pull off the both wheels, brake calipers and rotors, remove the 4 bolts for the axle retainers and pull each axle out about 150mm ( reverse the rotors onto the axles, put a couple wheel nuts on a few turns and use the rotor like a slide hammer. They don't have to come all the way out). Drop the panhard rod and remove the rear diff cover.

Use a dial indicator to measure the current gear backlash. Undo the 4 bolts holding the bearing caps in place. Use a pinch bar behind the centre (against the pinion) to lever the centre out. Make sure you keep the bearing caps and shims together on the correct sides (this is critical).

Swap the old bearings and crown wheel onto the new diff centre or you can use new bearings and then re-assemble the diff centre into the housing (making sure those shims go back in their original positions), button it all up and then measure the backlash. IF it's the same as before then go buy a lotto ticket, re-assemble everything, fill with oil and you are on your way.

If the backlash is different then it needs adjustment, if it's only a touch off it may well be fine or the gears might be a bit noisy when driving. If it's too tight, when things heat up there may end up been no backlash which will cause damage. A little looser not such an issue but again might cause gear noise.

The other option is to take it to a shop to fit, they will try and convince you to replace all the bearings and seals whilst they are there and lighten your wallet a bit more. With the axles, there is always a chance the seals might leak on the end of the axles (but this the fun part of playing with cars).
THanks for that! I've used a dial indicator before to measure backlash on a DSG clutch I have to replace on a Mk7 VW Golf. A quick google video shows me how to measure the gear backlash it and it looks much easier than the VW I worked on. Any reason why I should not replace the axle seals while I'm working on it? Is there a range on what my back lash should be? Or do I just shim it around to get the same? What is "close"?
 

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THanks for that! I've used a dial indicator before to measure backlash on a DSG clutch I have to replace on a Mk7 VW Golf. A quick google video shows me how to measure the gear backlash it and it looks much easier than the VW I worked on. Any reason why I should not replace the axle seals while I'm working on it? Is there a range on what my back lash should be? Or do I just shim it around to get the same? What is "close"?
I think it’s because they could well be just fine and no need to replace them. If it turns out they do actually need replacing it’s not a complicated job in comparison to the rest, so can be later if needed.

I think that’s what immortality is saying.
 

Immortality

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THanks for that! I've used a dial indicator before to measure backlash on a DSG clutch I have to replace on a Mk7 VW Golf. A quick google video shows me how to measure the gear backlash it and it looks much easier than the VW I worked on. Any reason why I should not replace the axle seals while I'm working on it? Is there a range on what my back lash should be? Or do I just shim it around to get the same? What is "close"?

Ideally you need the backlash the same, the gears are worn in as a set , if you change that backlash there is a chance of the gears becoming noisy. Close is probably good enough. Close I would call a couple of thou,

The factory back lash specification for these diffs is 0.10-0.18mm

Seals aren't hard to replace but you need a press as the bearing and seal are held in place by a press fit collar on the axle shaft. Not hard to do, just need a press (or access to one).
 

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All up to purchase my LSD centre (Chinese Trutrac) & get it fitted was around $2k with all new bearings and seals including R&R. We did run into an issue with the pinion fouling the new centre, so the pinion had to come out for machining (so additional collapsible sleeve, bearings, seal & labour). $400 for the LSD, $1600 machining/parts/labour. The fine print in the eBay ad did mention this may occur. Even to purchase a recon factory LSD is now $800 from reputable repairer. You could take a punt second hand.
 

Immortality

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Did yours foul on the stock 3.08 pinion or a different ratio?
 
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