Ecotec/l67 dry sump oil plan setup

[1bigkev]

Hey just wondering if anyone know or where I am able to buy a dry sump setup for as building a twin turbo l67 skid car cheers

 

[Immortality]

I've never seen one done but you can be the first.

Maybe look over in the US.

TBH, I think the bigger issue on the V6 motors that is overlooked is controlling oil temps.

 

[1bigkev]

I've never seen one done but you can be the first.

Maybe look over in the US.

TBH, I think the bigger issue on the V6 motors that is overlooked is controlling oil temps.

In the us was something on the old Buicks but not anything for a ecotec

My main problem will be as it’s going to be a skid car so it’s going to be thrown around on the pad that’s all

 

[Immortality]

IIRC the Buick and ecotec sumps have identical bolt patterns except the 2 bolts around the rear seal area (and obviously one is made of steel and the other cast alloy).

ASR make custom sumps, they do high capacity sumps etc to suit the ecotec for various motor sports events, extra capacity, baffled and gated etc.

 

[1bigkev]

IIRC the Buick and ecotec sumps have identical bolt patterns except the 2 bolts around the rear seal area (and obviously one is made of steel and the other cast alloy).

ASR make custom sumps, they do high capacity sumps etc to suit the ecotec for various motor sports events, extra capacity, baffled and gated etc.

Awesome cheers I will give them a call cheers heaps

 

[Immortality]

They aren't cheap, but probably a lot cheaper than going full dry sump. They also have the option of external pickup. Then use one of these,

INTENSE Racing: INTENSE Oil Filter Relocation Kit

intense-racing.com

Drill and tap for the oil for a fitting to enter the pump, and block off the internal oil pickup. Then you can fit a remote oil filter and cooler inline easy as pie.

 

[Draimond]

I think if you're talking dry sump money, a custom pan is basically an entree compared to the cost of everything else.

Drop in in-sump baffles aren't hard for a fabricator to do.

Skid as in burnouts or drifting? Big difference in sustained G's?

I have a similar oil distribution block on my engine. If you look into how Springs work, what they're saying about preload and adjusting oil pressure is actual BS.
Besides, the preload is acting on the same side of the spring that the oil is.
I do find that I have higher cold pressure though because the adjustments screw limits oil flow to the face of the plunger noticeably when the oil is cold. Hot pressures are 40 to 60psi. Pre oil cooler temps were 120°c in traffic 100% stock, 90,000kms engine L36. With the cooler and a faulty aeroflow oil thermostat, I get 70°c at night, 90°c in traffic and 100°c if I give it heaps for ages on a hot day with only the rad fan for airflow.

Make sure that that bloody distro block is proper flat and has a good gasket when you install it making sure the bolts have even torque. It wants so very badly to leak oil. Silicon all the ports.

Pushlock hoses and barb's. Depending on where you mount the filter it can be too much heat, movement and vibration for cutter style or compression fittings.

Fill the hoses coming out of the distro with as much oil as possible. My engine refused to make oil pressure for an uncomfortably long time until I back filled all the hoses with oil.

If you do find a good dry sump kit for the Ecotec, tell them you know of someone else who's interested in one. (Me)

 

[Immortality]

What temp thermostat do you run in your engine oil cooler?

Ideally you want oil on a daily driver up around the 100°C to help burn off moisture in the crank case. 120°C is quite high on a stock motor. I'll be interested to see if I get similar temps here in NZ.