Car audio and the affects it has on engine components

[ben315vz]

This is a thread about something I have experienced with my own cars and would just like to see if anyone else has had the same thing happen.

Basically, I have a VS Commodore L67. It has a big stereo system which includes a Pioneer Headunit, Alpine Type R Splits, Apline Type R 6x9's, 2x Alpine Type X 12" subs, Alpine PDX-M12 Amp x2, Alpine PDX-F6 Amp. Battery I am using is an Optima Yellow Top D34.

Now I know it's a big stereo system, so you have to expect voltage drop as it's going, but I just want to know, when you are driving along and have the stereo going, you can see the volts gauge drop down very low between 10-11 volts at times depending how much bass. This has caused problems with the way the engine runs, it has caused missfires and problems with the coils. I ended up changing the coils and the problem went away but it wasn't long before it came back.

But a way I found to fix that problem was to turn the stereo off, there was actually a significant difference in power with the stereo on and off.

So what are ways to get around this problem if anyone has come across it? I have upgraded the battery, I was thinking alternator but I can't see that fixing the problem either.

Now the reason I know this a stereo power problem is because:

Also I have a BF Falcon now, all it has is dual JL Audio 12" subs and an Alpine PDX amp. If I have the stereo cranking in that, I can notice a decrease in engine power at times, but when I just listen to the radio on low volume, it drives fine. It just has a normal maintenance free battery fitted.

I believe this can't be good for the alternator, battery, or even parts of the engine like coils or other sensors.

So what is other peoples opinions on this and what advice can you give? My friend that installs stereo systems for a living says he has never heard of this problem before but I'm sure I'm not the only one.

Cheers,
Ben

 

[Sandman]

Not the simplest solution but relocate the yellowtop to the boot and make that your dedicated stereo battery so you can bass till your hearts content and get another standard battery (Century or so $160ish) and have that purely for 'running' the car.

 

[ben315vz]

Not the simplest solution but relocate the yellowtop to the boot and make that your dedicated stereo battery so you can bass till your hearts content and get another standard battery (Century or so $160ish) and have that purely for 'running' the car.

And will the alternator be able to keep both batteries charged?

 

[Sandman]

Yeah didn't really think about that part there. You'd probably need to upgrade the alternator or speak to someone who knows a lot more than me haha.

 

[axemurderer101]

What does your volt gauge read when you have your stereo off?
And also what does it read when you turn your headlights on with highbeam and your interior fan on full?
If it drops below 13volts id say you have a faulty alternator.

 

[Tasmaniak]

This is a thread about something I have experienced with my own cars and would just like to see if anyone else has had the same thing happen.

Basically, I have a VS Commodore L67. It has a big stereo system which includes a Pioneer Headunit, Alpine Type R Splits, Apline Type R 6x9's, 2x Alpine Type X 12" subs, Alpine PDX-M12 Amp x2, Alpine PDX-F6 Amp. Battery I am using is an Optima Yellow Top D34.

Now I know it's a big stereo system, so you have to expect voltage drop as it's going, but I just want to know, when you are driving along and have the stereo going, you can see the volts gauge drop down very low between 10-11 volts at times depending how much bass. This has caused problems with the way the engine runs, it has caused missfires and problems with the coils. I ended up changing the coils and the problem went away but it wasn't long before it came back.

But a way I found to fix that problem was to turn the stereo off, there was actually a significant difference in power with the stereo on and off.

So what are ways to get around this problem if anyone has come across it? I have upgraded the battery, I was thinking alternator but I can't see that fixing the problem either.

Now the reason I know this a stereo power problem is because:

Also I have a BF Falcon now, all it has is dual JL Audio 12" subs and an Alpine PDX amp. If I have the stereo cranking in that, I can notice a decrease in engine power at times, but when I just listen to the radio on low volume, it drives fine. It just has a normal maintenance free battery fitted.

I believe this can't be good for the alternator, battery, or even parts of the engine like coils or other sensors.

So what is other peoples opinions on this and what advice can you give? My friend that installs stereo systems for a living says he has never heard of this problem before but I'm sure I'm not the only one.

Cheers,
Ben

Hi Ben, you are far from being the only one. What you are guilty of though is pouring all your money into the stereo with spending on the back up support. So you have an Optima. Big whoop. (Don't take offense to anything I say)

At the end of the day, your system really isn't that big. Bigger than average... yes.

Mate, you haven't told us what size cable you are running. Size of the fuse in the engine bay. What extra wiring you've run in the engine. I'm going to presume you've been smart and have upgraded the big three right?

How to upgrade the Big Three

This is essential to have done before complaining about voltage drop. How are the amps earthed? To a single earth point? or multiple earth points? Did you spider your earths?

If you have done all this and still have troubles then you can forget about dual battery setups until you have upgraded the output of the alternator. You MUST put back into the batteries whatever you take out. If you can't, you will deplete your power source and cause a voltage drop.

What alternator are you running? Check to see if the ex-Cop vehicles have a higher output alternator. Or do some research if need be but make sure the big three are upgraded first and foremost.

For what it's worth... My first stereo was about 5Kw in a Subaru wagon. On a good burp the engine would stall if only idling. lol

 

[ben315vz]

Ok, volts gauge reads between 13.5-14 volts with stereo off, engine idling, and it doesn't change much with the headlights on.
Alternator is fine but I'm concerned it won't be if I keep going the way I am.

So the power cable (and earth) that has been used I believe is 4 gauge, and the earth at the battery has been upgraded (but that's it). I think the fuse is 120amp from memory (I would have to double check that). The amps have multiple earths just into the body of the car, but I'm not sure what you mean by spider the earths?

The engine is out of my VS at the moment so I think I will upgrade the other earths while I'm at it like should be done. But I'm still not sure if this will completely fix the problem but I know that it will help.

 

[Tasmaniak]

You can't run a 3kw system from 4ga cable. Period. 2ga at a minimum and ideally 0ga. Spidered earths is multiple earths from each amp in a fan or spider leg formation. Used primarly to help reduce interference it also obviously adds one helluva an earth.

Upgrade that fuse to at least 200 if not 300A. That fuse is there purely for short circuit protection and not overload protection (amps have their own fuses for that) your current fuse is acting as a choke... chokes cause voltage drop.

Do the big three.

Make your earth wires as short as ####ing possible.

Hope this helps.

Your friend needs more experience before listening to him again.

 

[ben315vz]

You can't run a 3kw system from 4ga cable. Period. 2ga at a minimum and ideally 0ga. Spidered earths is multiple earths from each amp in a fan or spider leg formation. Used primarly to help reduce interference it also obviously adds one helluva an earth.

Upgrade that fuse to at least 200 if not 300A. That fuse is there purely for short circuit protection and not overload protection (amps have their own fuses for that) your current fuse is acting as a choke... chokes cause voltage drop.

Do the big three.

Make your earth wires as short as ####ing possible.

Hope this helps.

Your friend needs more experience before listening to him again.

Thanks mate, I am going to double check what fuse I have and what wiring he used tomorrow and get back to you again, and will definitely take your advice.

Yeah that's why I'm asking here, he doesn't seem to want to help and when I told him and he said that he has never had that problem before, yet two of my cars have the same problem now, I knew something wasn't right.

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it and I will let know how I go.

 

[ben315vz]

Just confirming, the power and earth wires are 4 gauge and the fuse is actually 100amp :/