'95 VS Ute No crank, no start.

[Ra P. Scallion]

Ephect, your suggestion re: leaving the ignition on for an extended period of time worked. Although the battery was too flat to start it by then... (Fuel pump must be re-wired directly to hot wire somewhere.) Changed battery and the condition re-appeared. Left it on for another 45 minutes and she's started, running now. I just hope I don't have to do that every time I want to start it! Lol. Thanks for your advice, greatly appreciated.

Still, I wish I knew what caused it...

 

[Ra P. Scallion]

...and it's done it again... Would that be the key battery?

 

[the_boozer]

probably .does your spare key work? get it cloned before it fails also

 

[ephect]

No, it won't be the battery, that's more for Central locking.

The bypass is a temp solution only.
Check the key head dome for tab contact. That works regardless of the key battery as its circuit is powered via the bcm when key is in. If the dome doesn't contact the tab there is no curciut.

You could replace the key and bcm, but if the tab/dome is the cause, replacing it will have the same effect.

 

[Ra P. Scallion]

Key has contact with ring. Can see it move when operating key and I've cleaned both dome and ring with isopropyl. Is it safe to assume it's the BCM at this point? Can I simply swap it out for another? I have a sedan parts car here.

 

[Fu Manchu]

• Remove the steering column shroud.
• Remove the slip ring from around the lock.
• Unplug it.
• Clean it.
• Make sure you have good continuity through it. (Use a multimeter).
• Re-install.

That slip ring should be powered with 3v when the key is flat.

Unplug the BCM (battery negative disconnected first) and clean the plugs and pins with “CO Contact Cleaner”. Plug back up and reconnect the negative terminal.

When installing the new battery, did the spannner or ratchet/socket connect to the body accidentally? A little spark?

 

[Ra P. Scallion]

No. I didn't short the battery to earth removing or replacing it.