'04 VZ SV6 Fuel Pump

[ToastMalone]

UPDATE:


Alright so the whole story:

Had a local mobile mechanic come around and diagnose the car (he swore it was the fuel pump itself, he said if u replace that and the issue is still ongoing, replace the crank sensor)

Replaced the spark plugs, fuel pump and assembly, fuel pump still wasn't priming, Called the mobile mechanic back and he told me to replace the crank sensor.

Sooo.. I called a mobile auto Elec to come and look over the car/wiring today,
After a few minutes of testing he realised in the engine fuse box the fuel pump relay was dead and reading no power like Manchu said, he used a wire and added direct power to the fuel pump inside the fuse box somehow, and the fuel pump started making noise.
he then pulled the small fuel pump fuse out and checked under it and said there was some corrosion, after cleaning that and the ECU plugs up and putting in a new fuse he said the fuel pump is working now.....But the only time i could hear it was when he
powered it directly, i still cant hear the fuel pump and mentioned it to him a few times but he was pretty sure the fuel pump was working,
i tested the Schrader valve and it let out the smallest drop of fuel like there was literally no pressure just a few drops, he held the Schrader valve whilst i cranked it for a sec and it seemed to spray a little more when cranking,
he tested the spark also and he said it has good spark but it seems very delayed, we grabbed my old mans MAP sensor at the back of the inlet and tried that in mine, error persisted,
even tried my one (possibly broken) in my old mans car and he's threw no errors, we cleaned up all the plugs/connections we could get to and that's were it sits now, mechanic and auto Elec both confused, (I STILL CANT HEAR FUEL PUMP LOL) when he left i ducked down to the shop and grabbed a crank sensor so will try putting that in tomorrow.
Will post updates, thanks guys!

Auto Elec said he can come back Friday and clean all the grounds/earths with me if I still have no luck but he cant find any issues with wiring

 

[Fu Manchu]

Was there trigger voltage at the pump relay.
That is controlled by the ECM via the PIM.
Have you by chance got a genuine key, or is it one of those SuperCheap Map keys?
Corrupted data on the cheap keys can cause security lock outs. So the ECM will not provide a trigger signal to the fuel pump relay. You’ll have spark, no fuel.

The mobile folks should have a decent bidirectional scan tool. That will be able to see which modules are talking and which circuits are active.

Should say fuel pump No, or something to that effect.

Did you make sure the return and supply lines were plumbed correctly? Not back to front?

Also once there is pressure, you won’t hear the fuel pump prime because the ECM will command it not too when pressure is there.

If I get time (not 3 mins here and there), I’ll get on the computer and get some diagrams up to help explain where to start looking.

On another note. Just remembered. One of our members had some issues (a bit different) and he removed the key blade. Cleaned all the grot off. There is a thin bit that comes from inside the key. The screw for the key blade goes through it. That is the earth. Get it all squeaky clean and screw the blade back in. Maybe a better earth solves it. Costs nothing to do. Give it a go. Long shot though.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Similar

I went and bought one of those relay testers. They cost about $20. Brilliant. A relay that might test ok with a multimeter etc may not pass as good using a relay tester.

 

[Fu Manchu]

At the relay:

The control/trigger wire at the relay is a green with white stripe. grn/WH pin 1.
Comes from the ECM. Top plug. Pin 19 on the ECM.

Orange wire is your 12v feed. (Pin 3)
Purple goes to the pump. (Pin 5)
Black with white (pin 2) goes to the earth plug behind the battery on the inner guard. A major earth that should be cleaned. Terminals and the thread it all gets bolted with.

I can’t find the PIM diagrams etc. too tired now.

 

[ToastMalone]

The auto Elec was probing the fuse box and was determined the fuel pump system was all getting power correctly in the end,
could smell the petrol but only a little drop from the Schrader valve came out (from my research I thought there would be like 50psi pressure or so in that fuel rail)
Left the car key with my old man last night (as the cars at he's house to do the diagnostics/repairs cause he has a nice concrete pad to work on)
will clean up the key today as your the second guy that's mentioned the key and asked if i had another one to try, the key itself looks like original but i think it is a cheap remake like you were saying as ive had a few different model holdens
in my time and never seen a key like this one, Yeah that relay tester Dan was using looks like a useful little tool to have regardless, overall pretty wholesome guy, a lot more cursing goes into my repairs

After some digging I managed to find your post in regards to the relay tester, Will grab one of those for future thanks heaps for that tip @Manchu

My key looks like this, Marked the location with the yellow dot in the picture below.

My key has what appears to be the shaft of a thin nail going into this bit not sure how deep but it isn't on the back, the plastic around it is raised making it look intended (will get a proper pic when I'm next to it)
note the key does unlock/lock the doors as intended and also deactivated the alarm when I accidentally triggered it




Did you make sure the return and supply lines were plumbed correctly? Not back to front? - Haven't tried this yet that's still on the to-do but pretty certain its how it came off

 

[Fu Manchu]

Yeah. If the logo is on the back then it’s genuine. (Likely)

Undo the two screws and remove the blade. Then clean it all up.

Put the blade back in. Do up the screws.

The key blade is earthed via the ignition barrel to the body.

The doors unlocking is a different operation. That is done via infrared and the signal is received via the sun sensor between the demister vents.

When the key is inserted the data from the key is read, the pin and the blade complete the circuit. It costs nothing to clean the blade so in the vain hope it works, it’s nothing lost.

 

[ToastMalone]

Sister sent me this, the key looks genuine actually, but horrid, definitely going to get onto doing that when I get there lol - any idea what that pin thing is on the front?

I'm not there at the moment but it literally looks like its been used to build sand castles. and then used as a spoon.




EDIT: After looking at that...... it looks like the screw from behind is driven that far in its poking out the front? .. never really had a good look lol.

I don't have a spare key so might get another one made up anyway

 

[Fu Manchu]

That contacts the slip ring surrounding the key. It carried the data from the key to the various modules.

When the key battery is low, the slip ring (silver thing around the ignition barrel) supplies 3v to the key to get it working.

The circuit is earthed by the key blade via the barrel and then body.

 

[Fu Manchu]

I would also plan to remove the fuel pump again and go through your install. You might have missed an o-ring and be bleeding fuel pressure in the tank.

We mentioned the supply and return line. It’s possible that yours is plumbed as later VZ’s with supply only and no return from the motor. In that case, can’t really get the lines muddled.

 

[ToastMalone]

Today I'll be cleaning the key up then installing this crank angle sensor- could that even be a possibility? i thought the car wouldn't get spark or anything without it :O

(RPM Gauge moves when cranking and the OBD II tool sees engine RPM correctly)

Then I'm going to double check these fuel lines at the pump


I pulled the key apart last night and gave it abit of a clean, seemed alright inside it was sealed with the original rubber seal around it.

I left the earth screw out and tried to start the car and it wouldn't even crank, put the key earth screw back in and it was back to cranking so the car must be recognising the key to some extent



still cant hear the fuel pump priming but the auto elec was confident it was getting power (cause there was power in the relay) and he could smell abit of fuel