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Double check vacuum lines, although you should have a host of other issues like a high idle if it had a vacuum leak.

Yeah... They probably lost a big chunk of the budget over the yellow paperweight in ep. 1 To be fair though, that was a very fast car on a very sketchy road and idk that moog really has much experience in exotics other that the lotus which I immediately start arguing with myself over whether or...

It's starting to look like it's coming together. Now if only the bumper would fit back on with that new piping. It's going to require some massaging... Plus the bumper appears to have morphed shape a little in the 5 months it's been off the car. A foot pedal for the Tig would be pretty...

Now these little buggers are pull to seat. Meaning that when they put it together the wire is put through the connector, then the terminals put on the wire, then it's pulled back into the connector. So you need to shove your tool up the connectors arse, try and lean it down to promote the...

Ok, so... Options... Go buy a throttle position sensor connector from EFI Solutions (or eBay or retailer of you're preference) You'll also need: • OEM spec crappy electrical tape. Can't use decent sheathing here because everything is pull to seat and you'd have to chop everything up. •...

I was working for a steel wholesaler up until I left at xmas, much of my car is built out of their scrap bin. I've probably got the same UniMig you do. But that machines been retired for the most part, as much as flux core is super handy, especially for those hard to reach spots like up the...

Cheers guys, much appreciated. After the first hour I walked out of the shed swearing and ranting. Didn't give it another shot until recently. Aluminium is a... Poorly behaved metal compared to steel. Oxyacetylene welding definitely gives you some of the skills, but again Aluminum is...

Like many things ecotech related, resistance can be a problem that emerges from heat soak. My starter motor doesn't work beyond the initial cold start in summer for example. You may encounter issues on a hot day. Let it cool down and go again. If all else fails, shove some extra metal in the...

I'd advise against using solder near the engine bay. Becomes brittle. Correctly crimping works. I'd also advise against replacing the connector with a flying lead harness that gets spliced into the engine existing loom. Any resistance on the cam / crank wires will mess stuff up. My de...

Red Wire is the 12V ✓

You still need steel lines on that side of the power steering though right? Or heavy duty crimped hydraulic hose. And the more flexible hose you use, the more hydraulic slop the system has due to hose expansion under pressure/load...?

Figured I should probably post some updates. I'm learning Aluminum Tig. So far I've done the sump drain, turbo compressor housing v band and a couple bits of intercooler pipe. So go easy on me... Not exactly an Instagram lobster back I know... If I could afford it, I'd do my learning on...

Correct me if I'm wrong but that pipe looks like you could chop an inch off it to flare a new tube nut on there and it would still reach with a bit of wrangling and reshaping. I'm very much of the school of thought that there's nothing that can't be replaced with modified or custom fabricated...

Yeah, 100% they can make up a new steel line. Doesn't have to be completely identical. Same threads are obviously the main thing, even adapters are fine if they have to. Steel pipe bends pretty good, so it's not a big deal to start from scratch. Pirtek etc can be a bit funny when asked to...

Cheers, yeah nah, didn't apply much pressure, just held it against. My meters probes are 3 times that size of those pins anyway, it'd never fit in there. Their test uses a 5V system and the signal wire is 0V... Mines a 12V system with about +6V coming out of the DFI modual on the signal wire...

That's making more sense. Still weird that the signal input wire would have voltage. I would have thought the voltage input would be altered by the hall effect sensor and the resulting voltage would be sent up the signal wire.

No that's what I was saying before... Because I did this test on a work bench and not in the car, the DFI modual isn't bolted to the engine so it wouldn't be grounded. (Assuming the DFI modual grounds to the engine through it's metal base) I'll do it all again with the DFI modual grounded.

I'd still like to get this all worked out and documented. But plan B... which is looking like plan A at the moment, will be to crank the engine with injectors disabled once the Haltech install is finished and just data log the cam and crank input. Making sure to set those AVI's to 12V first...

I was using the main chassis / engine ground... aka the batteries negative terminal. See the other two photos, the multimeters negative probe is under the alligator clamp on the negative terminal.

Just to throw a spanner in the works I did some testing. You know, I'm only just realising now that I didn't directly ground the DFI modual... so these readings probably don't mean anything... hahaha :rolleyes:

I love the torsion diff in my VS. Makes it predictable and feel much sportier. The 4.11's make it pretty angry too

Correct product ... Incorrect price hahaha...

May as well give a shout out to the guy I use for wiring while we're at it. https://www.nrtautomotive.com.au/

Cheers guys!!!! Yeah I remember that time. Where everything from China was available in Australia for an extra 5 - 10%. Bunch of local resellers buying in bulk and offering quick postage. It's still a thing but the market's so saturated now and it's hard to tell what's what. Back then it was...

Just to reiterate the above, yes. But different relays have different configurations. If we're talking about the common configuration, any 5 pin relay can be used in place of a 4, but not the other way around obviously. Just check the amp rating and the diagram on the relay. If it doesn't have a...

Trying to build a new wiring harness on a budget, I came across this silicon fibreglass sleeveving on eBay. It's pretty affordable and looks pro. More importantly, it does actually resist a direct flame for a while and it enables you to chemical and weather seal your wiring harness. Problem...

Check these buggers out! No idea where to get them from but they exist. These waterproof nutserts would work great on the fuel tank, not sure if that seal will last but it doesn't necessarily have to with a thick cork gasket over the top. Probably worth pointing out that the top face of the...

guess what's missing from what I wrote above was that he got a lot of engine time (at lower power / boost levels) running ARP studs & a MLS gasket. I'm fuzzy on his long ecotec journey but I think he blew a few head gaskets over the years and iterations of Ethel and her multiple engines. Each...

Ecotec head bolts are a known upgrade point when increasing cylinder pressure. CornFedBoost tapped Ethel a size up in head bolts and had a gasket failure not that long after nearly hitting the 1000hp mark on that V6

Alrighty Cheers guys, sounds good. Such a monster of a job going from a stock V6 auto to a turbo manual with a Haltech all by myself. Adding real boost is a long way off still. Having a car that idles and drives.... heck... just having a car instead of a project and pile of parts is the...

I don't think it's 5v disconnected. I believe the sensors has a resistor that pulls the 12 volt down to 5.... I'm going to run with Haltech's advice that it takes 12 volt in. It's going to be a massive job if it's wrong, because my 12 volt is in the engine bay and my 5 volt supply is from the...

Idles ok tho? Check for fault codes. V6 or V8? Check / clean throttle body and IAC. +1 for vacuum leaks.

What about a bolt on cap with a gasket? No welding needed?

That diagram refers to that pin as being "battery supply from DFI" which could suggest it's 12-14V input.

Would anybody be able to test the cam or crank sensor for me on their car? Should be ground, power and 0 to 5 volt on the cam. Ground, power plus two sets of 0 to 5 volt on the crank. I would assume you can test the by turning the ignition on and unplugging one of the sensors, then probing...

I mean... Sure, but you have to be careful. Any more than a few mm and the sheet metal will yield. We're talking about 1.2mm sheet metal after all.

Please don't bend the bloody door open guys, it'll never be the same again and it'll leak water every time it rains.

There's another thread that's talking about this at the moment: https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vs-v6-died.303114/page-8 I like afstruct's solution to this.

I couldn't find where to get the Kalmaker software these days, which points towards Tuner Pro being the only option. Have a read through here if you'd like to dive into the PCM / ECM world: https://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1396

It's getting much harder to find people that can tune the factory PCM. In Queensland I know of one person that will do it. Start by finding your tuner and basically just buy whatever they tell you to get because they're the ones who are going to have to get it working. Otherwise you could...