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Things only really replacing when they show signs of failure. Otherwise you're just throwing money away. Otherwise for all other things, follow the log book as a guide for when to replace what.

As per my answer to your other million threads, Gates or Dayco work well.

Yes as long as you go with a reputable brand like Dayco or something similar. And please stop spamming the forum with multiple threads. It would be nice if you created one single thread for yourself so we could address all of your concerns in one spot.

No offence chief but throwing money at the Ectoec V6 is like throwing money at a brick wall. If you want your car to go faster, do it properly and get a V8. The V6 is nothing more than a reliable motor to get you from A to B. It does nothing else beyond this unless you have some very, very...

Yep, froth on the radiator cap is a sign of a leaking inlet manifold. Does the coolant look like there's oil in there too? A leak behind the tensioner could possibly be just rocker cover gaskets. They're a cheap and easy fox. A photo would help.

If you want your car to ride poorly, go ahead. Ideally you would match those springs with a shortened shock to retain some sort of ride comfort.

Yeah, that sounds like a sticky lifter to me.

Chances are it's actually coming from the pump. Assuming 20k a year your pump is now 140k old. You could start by cleaning up the around the water pump and cleaning the leak, then go for a drive and see if it's weeping around the water pump.

Yeah get wheels that actually fit your car properly. Or roll your guards.

I'm on the fence about this one. Generally speaking, tap water at least here in Vic is pretty clean so I just use tap water. If you're going to lose sleep over it, go demineralised. Sounds like your inlet manifolds are toast. Get those fixed before you waste good coolant. If you don't fix it...

Plugs look ok. Read any codes yet?

Can you hear the fuel pump prime when turning the key to ignition? If not, there's a start.

10w40 is fine for the Ecotec. As stated in the book, don't use anything lower than 10w30. Depending on the mileage, consider using something thicker like 15w40 or 20w50. Don't pay too much attention to the brand, as long as it meets the spec of the vehicle it's fine to use. There's way too much...

Not the answer you'd want to hear, but maybe just wait until you're off your P's to get a Clubsport. This way you can avoid the headache of swapping a motor. There is a lot of money and opportunity cost involved with swapping a motor. The money that you throw at a swap could otherwise be spent...

I don't think that the WH has become fully appreciated yet. It will be appreciated in due course but like any car, the sports models are the ones that gain the most value and quickest value (SS). You may have to wait some time (I'm talking years). But I can remember as a kid how beautiful I...

Thanks mate, but that's the idler pulley. Did a bit of calling around, for anyone else who might be interested the part number is EP005 and is the v-belt pulley. Hope this helps!

Hello all, Has anybody got the part number and specs for a power steering bracket pulley for a 5 litre? I think mine is starting to make a few noises. I'm not after the power steering pump pulley but power steering bracket pulley. Thanks.

Was the battery wiring fixed properly? I'd be following the wires a bit further back to make sure that nothing else got damaged. There's a possibility that something else was damaged while the battery moved, check the negative terminal too?

I would've thought the opposite. Your car thought you were doing 80km/h that's why your steering went hard. Surely it can't be determined by actual speed, as that could only be determined by GPS.

I'm just gonna keep driving it the way it is, I'll let my mechanic deal with it at the next service. This one seems a little too challenging.

Hey OP I know you probably love your car, but would you consider buying a another cheap Commodore in better condition and fixing that up? Probably a better option than painting which will cost a few grand minimum. A VT/VX in good shape is about $1500 these days, sometimes $1000.

Is there fuel in there? Turning the key to if ignition you should hear the fuel pump prime for a few seconds. If you don't, chances are it's kaput.

Do you have any recommendation on which distributor to get?

Mine is a 1998 model. Guess that rules out Tungsten Pearl from 2000 onwards? Which leaves the question, which of the remaining two is correct?

Suppose if I replaced the hall effect sensor in my distributor that would likely solve the problem? I wonder how much of a difference it would make to the performance of the car. My understanding is that my injectors are no longer being fired sequentially, which they were designed to do.

I recently got a boot lid in H114 off a VX Commodore, thought it would be the same as the H114 on my VT Calais. Really stupid to have the same paint code for completely different colours, makes no sense whatsoever.

Yep, make sure you've got enough fluid in there and turn the wheels lock to lock a few times to purge any air in the system. Then check the fluid level again.

I would've thought it would be as simple as unbolt the old panels off and fit your new panels on, at least for a VY/VZ facelift. You won't be able to swap a VE front end onto your VU.

Great find, thanks for your help! Looks like so much work though... not really motivated enough to go that far to fix it. Makes you wonder how many other 5L VT's are out there with the same problem. I would assume many.

Hi all, Car has been feeling a bit sluggish recently. Runs a little bit rough on a cold start, but once warmed up idles fine. Hooked it up to the scan tool and has code 0048: camshaft position sensor missing. To my knowledge, the 5 litre motor does not have a camshaft position sensor. Any...

I believe that the stop bracket causes more of a rattle than it does a squeak? The noise from my car is literally squeaky rubber. In any instance, my method has helped my issue but I will consider yours if it doesn't go away completely.

I would also like to know. Quite the effort if it is...

A common issue over time is that the felt lining on the doors wears out, and subsequently the doors will start to squeak when going over bumps. Squeaking will especially occur going in and out of driveways as the chassis begins to flex. One way to fix this is to get some new felt lining from...

Yeah does sound like this car has done one too many single peggers. OP, consider keeping your current car for spares and buy a new one? VT/VX Commodores in reasonable condition can be had for 2k.