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Road side rough diagnostic and tow.. That's all they are these days

What colour was the smoke?

How long has it run after doing the clean? It may have some crap in the exhaust that is burning away.

Its possibly a mobile phone antenna

You need to de-pressurise the fuel rails, running the car with the pump fuse out, will do this. It's the pump that's feeding the rails, this definitely needs to be stopped. Honestly I'm uncertain if there is just an injector fuse on the VE. Other members can chime in here or check the fuse...

Steer with the rear..

I was tagging another member to alert him to this thread.

You can pull plugs, then wait 10mins before doing the test. Will be dry enough. If you get inconsistent results, give it an hour and try again. If you get th4 same results then add a few drops of oil in each and test again

Pull the fuse, start the car, which will die not long after. Then you can do the comp test

It could be the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator (fpr) is stuffed or the fpr is which is not holding pressure on the rails. Could also be inlet manifold gaskets leaking into the cylinders. Try turning the key to reds for 5 secs, not starting the engine. Then turn the key off and...

You'll find it's normal street a while. When you jam the throttle, the ecu needs to work out the best gear for the transmission, while the revs climb. Try the power button which will hold gears longer keeping revs up.

@VS_Pete may have some info.

1/4 x 2, 1/2" unf bolts. Same as the second image on the first post.

Taken from the article The money will come from the existing Driving the Nation fund under the Department of Climate Change, Energy, the Environment and Water, which has been tasked with delivering a “backbone” national EV charging network on key highway routes at an average interval of 150...

Gtechniq C5 has been ordered, awaiting arrival. Over the next week I'll hit each wheel with the buff and polish in preparation for the final ceramic coating.

If it's the single bellhousing it's from the vr/vs era I believe the bolt pattern may be different, also it may have 12pins in the plug whereas yours may have 13pins. This may be v6 related only but worth checking. There are a few differences so if you can see it in person and have photos of...

Next time it doesn't start try checking the 2 things below no cost and easy to check. 1. In park position, Add forward pressure the gearstick and see if it starts, if not try rearward pressure. 2. Check if the immobiliser light is out when you try to start it. If 1 works then it's the...

It does sound immobiliser related. Check codes the old fashion way. https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/checking-error-codes-vr-vs-revised.22307/

At least on the 4l60e there is a lockout pin that needs to be set in the correct position else it won't let it change, it is rod connected not fully electric. Have a quick squizz online to see if yours has that. Else it could just be a solenoid plug not fully seated.

I wouldn't trust the ones on the vents. I have 2 that slip between between weather strip and the glass. Similar to this

They going in the ashtray location?

I think sometimes it's best this generation doesn't breed. The rate of gender conversion is its own natural selection.

All in the wrong places

Ok so a good lesson for everyone to check handbrake shoes. They look original and untouched for 25ish years. Pothole finally ended it.

It's down to each car and how it's used and the life it's had. These cars are now 25+ years old Stop start traffic will always yield **** economy. Mainly highway gives best results. Regarding car specific, you'll need to log data from the ecu to see how and why fuel useage is high. Dirty fuel...

No worries, hoping for your sake it's something simple, easier and cheaper to start with the small stuff then to replace ecu/bcm route

Don't forget to check the interior fuses as well. Check relays too I'm unsure if the vt runs the fuses that are secured with screws, they're different to the normal spade fuses

Is the plenum top split from the intake manifold? I know it can be split to not need gasket replacement. Been a while since I've done it thou, so I could be talking out my ass

Hey mate Can you give us a little more detail on the pinging so we can help you better. When did it start? Anything recently done or changed? Does it only do it on high revs or load. Does it do or cold, hot or both? When was the last service?

Start with checking fuses, there will be a few that have fried. Hopefully its just fuses and not bcm/ecu. The incorrect battery hook up is more important than the ecu/bcm replacement. You never did update your first thread...

This is the way

Serve it to her cold or just move into the garage before being thrown in there

Losh, just stop mate. Stop flogging the dead horse. We know your stance, Paul knows your stance. Let it go.

This part is concerning as the rubber shouldn't scrub out, it's there for dampening. It can come loose from the housing in spots but shouldn't spin to scrub. Can you see where exactly the rubber has come from? Unless the angles are way out forcing it to rub on something.

Totally different engine to what's been discussed. Yours is electronic throttlebody, unsure if they like being manually opened but most reports they don't. You may have to do a relearn procedure