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I’ll replace My actuators because only the front passenger door actuator works fine and all of them are just make sound but doesn’t Pull the knob then I’ll try to Lock and unlock it with the snib maybe that’s the reason it’s not Unlocking or locking

How do i Check it?, well today with my friend he have a similar issue with his commodore, he said park your car on a slope road leaning to right And when i did it within a minute the fuel gauge showed the remaining fuel it went from E to Above the red line, so it means my Fuel pump is bad?

I’ve been Noticing that when i start my car up it takes 5 to 10 mins for fuel needle to raise slowly from E to remaining fuel point, and whenever i go for a drive the needle slowly goes back to E and Stays there whole time till i stop somewhere. Any answers why it’s happening?

Hey brother, Do u know which BMW coupling is Compatible with the WL?

We All know that Commodores doesn’t have The Lock & Unlock button, but the newer ones had, I have A WL and I’m totally confused how Center lock system works like if i want to lock or Unlock The all doors while driving how am I supposed to do it?, it unlocks When i pull up the Lock knob But when...

Hey guys, hope you all doing well, so basically I have A WL SS And I’m trying to go into the Engineering mode I followed al the steps mentioned in the Other threads But it won’t go into the engineering mode, the Engine service Reminder beeps comes on, i know it’s the service one because my...

Alright, I opened up my cluster today and It was Slightly different from the above picture, anyway i changed the both capacitors and still testing, but i suspect that the speed needle is not telling the correct speed even though it’s on the same Position i recalibrated it. I was testing the...

While trying to recalibrate the Needles needs to be moved forcefully at the end, i was Just doing Great When it reached the end where it needs a lil more force It become Free, right now i stopped is it to act like that or i messed up?

Update : So i Dissembled the Cluster and Inspected the display Carefully the Front polarizer was Totally Crumbled up, And checked the display it’s all Blacked out, so it is Completely dead?

Oh, I haven’t fixed mine, i’m looking for a donor Cluster to transfer the Integrated parts Btw thanks for the information شكرا يا غالي

Do u have a picture of it? By the way your Cluster did the same Issue as mine? Whole cluster turns off and on ?

Yup my Car is all Black And it was sitting at Direct Sun light For like 6 or 7 months All happened because of Sunlight and humidity, i also have to change the Cluster Later because of electrical Issues in it , will give it a shot

The screen Looks like It’s popping out , Like the front polarizer is popping here’s a photo of it,

today i was looking at the Cluster LCD, It is All crystalized, Was wondering that if i changed the Front and Back polarizers of it Will it become normal or Not , let me know if this trick will work or not

So basically The Shaft Turned out to be Good, the mechanic Replaced the shaft Support with the genuine one, And I’ve been driving the car for 5 days No Vibration and All seems good now will give u more Update next week

Nope, the Whole Tail shaft Looks good, I’ll give it a go Might Solve the issue, went to the Mechanic shop He Carefully Analyzed the Shaft And found no flaws in it. He Said He have A fairly new Shaft Laying around And he’ll Replace it for free Even if the same thing occurs then something is wrong...

Oh That’s Kinda expensive to me, let’s see

Yes the rear suspensions are independent , And I know A good Mechanic who Works on my Car he replaced the Center bearing 2 times But this time i Went To a different mechanic He Specifically Works on GM vehicle He replaced the Shaft Bearing Infront of me With all precautions but after like 2...

hey Guys, Does anyone knows Which center Bearing Of BMW is Compatible with the Statesman WL Center Bearing? Realigned The Drive Shaft and Replaced the shaft bearing because of the Broken Rubber For the 4th Time Now I’m Considering A BMW one Because Some people told me to Replace it with the...

guys i have a Holden Statesman Wl, So Last Year mechanic Replaced the Center Bearing i gave him the American one, And after Six months it somehow got Broken again , and this time I bought the genuine One and It lasted for like a month or two, you might say i’m a bad driver but no I drive this...

Instead of buying A wrecked Cluster for a lcd display i was Wondering if Someone is willing to sell me the LCD display of the cluster Anyone up?

Yea Please let me know what’s the Issue with it, and yeah it’s expensive to Copy paste the old odo readings that’s why i’m also Finding the solution of the problem some say it’s the IC

When ever i Slam the driver door shut, the car sometimes Locks itself automatically, even when in idle it just locks itself when i shut the driver door, any Solution to it? I always Have to keep the window down because of it :(

My WL remote’s Lock button is Not working it’s been 2 years, so was wondering to buy a new one from ebay, AliExpress Are they good or nah?

I’ll give it a try, ordered one from AliExpress, it will take months to arrive XD

I checked it They are the same but their Wiring pins is different

They are Specifically designed for the Commodores from 1999 to 2005 not the universal ones, but thanks for the Advise dude!. i’ll give it a shot!

hey guys, so The Situation is that my driver door and Rear Door lock actuator is completely fried up, i found some aftermarket Actuators on AliExpress should i order from there? (New/Used parts are impossible to find here in middle east and the shipping fees from Australia Costs alot)

Oh man :/

I’ve Checked this thread But He didn’t updated us about which chip is bad, i want to know which IC is bad so i can repair the IC and solder a New Screen.

The screen is completely crystallized it’s been like a year or so but for me it’s not an issue rn , but the tacho and speedo is Stuck at this position No response from them they just froze at this position

Here again for a similar issue regarding The instrument cluster, So basically i Was cruising on my WL, just Stopped on a traffic light and notice the Instrument Was totally dead But the Indicator And the High beam Lights were turning on when i used those but no Response from the speedometer ...

I’ll give it a try Tomorrow!

Maybe or maybe not, but it does even with the cooling fans off, I think the Injectors Needs Some cleaning.

Hey there

It’s Auto, and yes no Codes on it just faulty Airbag

So Basically it happens when the Car is at stop Position ,It runs Fine No Issue or vibration While driving, when the Car is at stop, engine RPM stays on 600 no up and downs, after 30 seconds or less the vibration Comes for a second then Gone, but its quite noticeable it doesn't do while driving...

Last week A mechanic Checked it, Said its all good

So since i’ve Bought the Car There’s a Slight Vibration that comes for a second And it Lightly vibrates the whole car and its Quite noticeable, i’ve Cleaned the throttle body and the manifold, still it often happens, is it normal?

Haven’t changed any of those, It randomly Stopped Working, I will check today if there is any voltage in the Wiring or not