Shop windows or back of the shed wall is what I do, not sure how people go weeks without noticing lights are out.
Do they not look in the rear view mirror?
Use a drying aid,
I like CarPro Elixir, wash car & leave wet, a few sprays of Elixir on your microfiber towel & dry as usual, reapply Elixir to towel every panel.
Works for me we have hardd water.
Needs to be completely dry before oiling, I'd imagine the oil wouldn't penetrate or wick properly throughout the filter & possibly become airborne on startup.
Sounds like a vacuum leak, check all the hoses around the area you were working including the evap hoses for correct fitment.
You may have possibly cracked a brittle one removing.
I wouldn't worry about it too much unless you want a cam that is, service it every 7500 -10000 & use an engine flush every now & again.
Most of these issues arise from poor maintenance schedules.
Check the positive terminal fuses, its the clear block on the positive battery lead.
They are non replaceable fuses so a replacement block would be required.
Hi level input is what you want using speaker wire connections.
If you were upgrading the headunit you would use RCA connection.
There will be a guide or post somewhere on this forum for the speaker wire colours & location to tap into.
You won't be able to remove the metal plate, remove the 3 nuts & the whole light assembly pulls away from outside the vehicle.
Be careful with the long metal threads as you pull away.
This panel pops out, then I use a 1/2 inch socket on an extension bar to remove the long plastic nuts.
Can be a little fiddly & don't drop the plastic nuts...
When it's running pull the dipstick out & see if there is air & smoke/oil spitting out.
I had a VZ that had a completely blocked PCV valve caused it to run rough & no power.