Search results

The VS manual (Ecotec) says nothing about oiling threads,it says to coat the threads with Permatex lock nut or equivalent sealant. On Googling Permatex lock nut, it came back with Permatex thread lock medium strength. So the Loctite 609 as above would be suitable. Whether you would use that in...

It was the worry of the the rearmost cylinders leaning out that made me put it back in. Whether it's just a fallacy or not I don't know. One gasket either side?

Sealant, as some/all of the block thread holes penetrate water jackets?

Well worth it,mine caught heaps of crap that fell in the coolant passages when I did my LIM.

The old bell mouth mod...really couldn't see any difference,so put a stock one back in.

Just bought a series one buick, I did have to buy the ute it was in as well though...

Straight away I thought of a lump of sticky black stuff in the fuel tank...

Yes,noticed that!

You replaced the ignition barrel,what about the actual switch?

In regard to crimping/soldering, the original pins have survived and worked for 30 odd years being crimped so I'd say crimping would be enough. If you go to the extent of heat shrinking each wire you're going to have to de-pin the lot. If you go that far, you might just as well cut the lot off...

The fault was having the wires to the connector bent round in such an angle. I ended up stripping the insulation back from the loom about 200mm and took the plastic cover off. I replaced the CAS first but that didn't help,put a spare DFI on but the problem was still there. After I did 'eased'...

I bought some de-pinning tools but couldn't seem to get the pin out. By that stage I had the car running again so didn't bother going any further with it. I should add that I didn't have a burnt pin,it was more to be able to swap the pins/wires if I needed to. Dunno if you have Upullit over...

Could also be the wiring/connector to the DFI. Try wiggling the wiring around at the harness near the connector,it may help.

From PCMHacking they suggest eficonnection.com.... metripack 150.2 female 22-20 AWG...part number 100-00343. Looks like the one, I used that image to check which way the terminals came out of the plug.

Buick throttle body and inlet manifold will not fit Ecotec. There is a couple for sale around Adelaide...

30Amps is a lot of current to pass through the DFI wiring,you'd think the wire would melt.

That's what I'll use,I'm pretty sure I could just start cutting but I'll wash the tank out to be sure. I've got some major Dental work on Monday so I might leave it till next week but I'll definitely take some photos.

Battery won't throw a code as such,did you check the (old) battery with a multimeter?

That didn't go as expected..I went to see the radiator guy that someone on here used to open up their tank and it sounded like he'd never done it before. He asked me how I was going to open it up(?) and I said with a grinder, he said he could but wanted to open it up a centimetre away from where...

Looks like the photos have disappeared. I am about to take a VG ute tank down to get cut open and I want to bring it back to clean out,fix a dent and replace the hoses. If the guy I'm taking it to will allow me to do this it may be a good opportunity to take photos if anyone is interested.

I came across submersible hose the other night looking for fuel line at Autobarn but couldn't actually pay for it at the check out for some reason. The hose I bought for the VS wagon was from a (hotrod) place in Queensland. Yes you have to specify submersible.

Sounds like a loose baffle in one of the mufflers.

Should be written on there,it looks like a regular lead/acid.

Interesting, have you tried asking Holdspares? Seems odd that they would put two in a box,unless it was a 'kit'. I wonder if there is a difference internally between the series one and series two...

$145...14 years ago. Read post #35.

Maybe headers heating up from lean conditions? White smoke you may have fried your LIM gaskets.

Have a look at the fusible link. Odd that it should just sh!t itself but maybe you have a major short. I'm thinking of when my alternator fried itself...

Last one I got was from Repco, branded P.A.T. Was only about $25. Seems to be ok, although it's only been in for a couple of weeks....

See post #20...

VS series 3 has digital dash, my series 1 has analogue.

Was it working before you replaced the stalk? If it was some of the Chinese stalks had wiring that was wrong or dodgy (allegedly)

That's what I thought. I won't mention the manufacturer's name as am still waiting for a response to my email regarding what guarantee (if any) exists. I had it installed by a local mechanical workshop because I didn't want to be rolling around in the dirt under a car on stands. Turns out I had...

Put a new starter motor in the snot box, the photo is not the new one,it's the one I had put in on 08/07/2022... 7,675 kms travelled.

V6 OR V8?

If my brake pedal went to the floor just once, I would stop driving it until it was fixed. To keep driving it is just crazy.

I was thinking more of deforming the actual steering wheel but I'm not sure that someone would bother, hopefully they'd just move on. I saw Supercheap have the club style branded as SCA.

With the club lock I try to get the thing extended as far as possible to eliminate 'wiggle room'. This does cause the thing to jam when unlocking, needing to be further extended for the key to turn, abit like the steering lock. I wonder if that was the case with old mate and his Prolock...

They might not have seen the glass if it was clean, might need a strip down the bottom that they can see.

If the car's been lowered the rear brakes may have been locking up. Seems the easy way to fix that rather than adjust it is to simply disconnect it. How safe or legal that is...

Probably not a good idea to put your Email up on a public forum...I have Emailed a scan of fuse details from a workshop manual through to you. That Email address seems to be wrong also. P.M sent.