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what did you do to your car today?
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yamahahatim
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A little bit..
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yamahahatim
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What bits exactly mr Fu?
yamahahatim
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Custom main leaf, with reversed eyes, lowered kings(minus main leaf) reset.
Tapered blocks. Cut bump stop.
360mm centre wheel to lip.
Stacks of clearance.
Tapered blocks. Cut bump stop.
360mm centre wheel to lip.
Stacks of clearance.
Last edited:
yamahahatim
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Monroe gt reflex struts,
Lovell, low I think. 365 mm.
Lovell, low I think. 365 mm.
Ginger Beer
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Took the SS out for about an hour cruise, the weather started turning so I called it early, still, great drive and very therapeutic
Only one thing that caught my eye, my IAT was fluctuating slightly again, where it use to sit at 25°C cruising in basically all weather conditions, whether it was 20°C or 35°C ambient temp, today it would get up to 38°C for a while, then drop back down to 25°C after a few minutes, then back up again (ambient temp today cruising was 17°C)
When I got back I checked fluid level and the connector at the pump but it was all fine, I'm thinking that it might be the Bosch water pump for the WTA intercooler starting to fail, the AC is ice cold, and it made no difference to the IAT when I isolated the in cab AC and sent all of the refrigerant to the interchiller (a switch isolates the in car AC so it doesn't drip condensation under the far at the drags strip)
So as I do, it's time to upgrade some parts and move stuff around
1. A new Pierburg CWA400 water pump, which is a more robust and modern pump that also supplies more pressure/flow, and, while we're in there.........
2. A FI interchiller "Stage 2 kit" for the interchiller which consists of another condenser that taps into the OEM condenser and has a push fan in front
3. Move the trans cooler away from the cooling stack (the trans cooler transfers it heat currently to the cooling stack)
4. Add a proper power steering cooler, and move it away from in front of the cooling stack
5. And maybe....... move the battery to the boot and get a insulated and baffled reservoir that has the pump externally mounted to it, that roughly takes up the same space as where the battery goes, which would give me probably around 8-10 litres of extra coolant, but I'll speak to my guy and see if he thinks it will be worth while if fitting the stage 2 kit and better pump
Remember that this is only a street car/cruiser, so I will be looking closely at the budget, the stage 2 costs around $1200, and the pump between around $600-800 dependant on what style of fittings
That's about $2000 in parts to start with, then there is the supporting stuff like hoses, heavier gauge wiring and stuff that the pump requires, and then the cost of tapping into the OEM condenser and modifying the AC lines, again, regassing, and all the labour and other random things that it will pop up and be required
Once we work out those costs, then I'll see if the larger reservoir is feasible or even required, as the process for relocating the battery and getting the reservoir fabricated and plumbed up will be a big ticket item (custom fabrication costs alot)
Basically, I need to talk more to my guy (my guy builds and tunes lots of race and street cars that use interchillers), so he will set me straight on what is, or isn't, required to keep my IAT under control
Tip for young players with a WTA system, if your pump dies, expect your IAT to be above 80°C cruising, and much higher at WOT (This is what happened to me once when I forgot to plug the pump back in once)
Only one thing that caught my eye, my IAT was fluctuating slightly again, where it use to sit at 25°C cruising in basically all weather conditions, whether it was 20°C or 35°C ambient temp, today it would get up to 38°C for a while, then drop back down to 25°C after a few minutes, then back up again (ambient temp today cruising was 17°C)
When I got back I checked fluid level and the connector at the pump but it was all fine, I'm thinking that it might be the Bosch water pump for the WTA intercooler starting to fail, the AC is ice cold, and it made no difference to the IAT when I isolated the in cab AC and sent all of the refrigerant to the interchiller (a switch isolates the in car AC so it doesn't drip condensation under the far at the drags strip)
So as I do, it's time to upgrade some parts and move stuff around
1. A new Pierburg CWA400 water pump, which is a more robust and modern pump that also supplies more pressure/flow, and, while we're in there.........
2. A FI interchiller "Stage 2 kit" for the interchiller which consists of another condenser that taps into the OEM condenser and has a push fan in front
3. Move the trans cooler away from the cooling stack (the trans cooler transfers it heat currently to the cooling stack)
4. Add a proper power steering cooler, and move it away from in front of the cooling stack
5. And maybe....... move the battery to the boot and get a insulated and baffled reservoir that has the pump externally mounted to it, that roughly takes up the same space as where the battery goes, which would give me probably around 8-10 litres of extra coolant, but I'll speak to my guy and see if he thinks it will be worth while if fitting the stage 2 kit and better pump
Remember that this is only a street car/cruiser, so I will be looking closely at the budget, the stage 2 costs around $1200, and the pump between around $600-800 dependant on what style of fittings
That's about $2000 in parts to start with, then there is the supporting stuff like hoses, heavier gauge wiring and stuff that the pump requires, and then the cost of tapping into the OEM condenser and modifying the AC lines, again, regassing, and all the labour and other random things that it will pop up and be required
Once we work out those costs, then I'll see if the larger reservoir is feasible or even required, as the process for relocating the battery and getting the reservoir fabricated and plumbed up will be a big ticket item (custom fabrication costs alot)
Basically, I need to talk more to my guy (my guy builds and tunes lots of race and street cars that use interchillers), so he will set me straight on what is, or isn't, required to keep my IAT under control
Tip for young players with a WTA system, if your pump dies, expect your IAT to be above 80°C cruising, and much higher at WOT (This is what happened to me once when I forgot to plug the pump back in once)
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When you do a run down the strip does your IAT's climb drastically or if you fang it around for a while do they climb? If yes then more capacity is probably a good idea. If no then the system is coping well with the heat produced.
