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2011 VE SSV Pierced Oil Sump/Pan

lmoengnr

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Smitty said:
... that was my thought
a disconnected rod and /or cap that has gone for a walk
Click to expand...
Might have been a flying cap, a broken rod usually makes a larger 'inspection port' in the sump/crankcase.
 
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losh1971

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lmoengnr said:
Might have been a flying cap, a broken rod usually makes a larger 'inspection port' in the sump/crankcase.
Click to expand...
If in doubt, refer to Pic of the Day Thread. :)
 
Smitty

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losh1971 said:
If in doubt, refer to Pic of the Day Thread. :)
Click to expand...
depends....

Many moons ago, I lost a very hot 202 at 7500.... drag racing at CAlder you see

stopped with an electrical fault ! ....coz the No.1 rod came out the side of the block and took the alternator with it :eek:
 
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Morning legends, some veteran shared this link and suggested this is the easiest way to get the sump,

I only took the 18MM mount nuts off. is there anything else i should remove before jacking up the engine? please share your thought ASAP if possible. TIA

 

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Lex

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losh1971 said:
I'd be pulling the engine, rather than going to the effort of getting the sump off in situ. Even a blown 6L has some value. I'm thinking it might be a pull sump in situ, and if too far gone then move the whole car on?

I no longer find it enjoyable to be lying on my back working on cars though.
Click to expand...
Isn't that why you bought a hoist for?
Or was that so you could pay the mobile mechanic to come to your place, use your tools & hoist & power, then you end up doing the work, then he gives you the bill?
Is that correct? ;) :D:cool:
 
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Mon-aro said:
Morning legends, some veteran shared this link and suggested this is the easiest way to get the sump,

I only took the 18MM mount nuts off. is there anything else i should remove before jacking up the engine? please share your thought ASAP if possible. TIA

Click to expand...

Never lifted a LS3 so take what I say with a gain of salt…

Just be careful that the box section you use isn’t too big so the box section sits nicely on the flats of the engine mount. Else if they are too big and sit on the edge/curve, with the 200kg off a fully loaded LS3, they may splay open and oops….
As for what else needs to be done during jacking up, I’d use a block of wood on the jack to spread the load on the sump and I’d check all wiring looms, cables, pipes, exhaust, etc will have the freedom to move that 50mm
 
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losh1971

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Lex said:
Isn't that why you bought a hoist for?
Or was that so you could pay the mobile mechanic to come to your place, use your tools & hoist & power, then you end up doing the work, then he gives you the bill?
Is that correct? ;) :D:cool:
Click to expand...
Pretty much. I will add I usually get my hands dirty while he was there. Also if I had a wreck I'd be pulling the engine myself. My DD is a bit different, because if something goes wrong because of my stuff up then it could leave me stranded.
 
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losh1971 said:
Been thinking about how hard it would be to make a timber frame base to make a bike lift using the hoist. I have a front chock, and a bike loading ramp, just need to make the rest.
Click to expand...
I’d make it out of steel And not wood. And I’d pop into a local bike dealer and see if they have some bike shipping crates (that years ago they’d just toss out) as that would make a good platform to start with building a hoist jig for the bike.
 
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losh1971

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Skylarking said:
I’d make it out of steel And not wood. And I’d pop into a local bike dealer and see if they have some bike shipping crates (that years ago they’d just toss out) as that would make a good platform to start with building a hoist jig for the bike.
Click to expand...
I can't weld and I don't own a welder, hence my thoughts on using timber.
 
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