Recent content by MikeC

The CC used by GMH is the US Electro-Motor system. To install one you'll need a VN/VP CC module and wiring ( a VR module might work but a lot of VR control system stuff won't work VN/VP's.) , a CC cluster switch block and wiring , the brake/clutch release switches and wiring. The speed and...

Yep. I bodged my button washer stalk about 10-15 years ago with a long flat headed case nail. The nail's steel is much stronger than the original Holden plastic. It's still there- I don't see any point in paying $200-300 for a replacement switch just to get the original button and stalk out.

Thanks. My intermittent CRS light was due to dry solder joints. They're the bane of our car instrumentation systems these days . And the days when you could buy a good replacement cluster switch block on ebay for $30 are long gone. I haven't seen a VQ II RHS cluster switch block (with the...

The built up contacts.

The cluster switches on our cars are starting to show their age these days. My cruise control switches started going intermittent with the RES+ failing totally each time I drove more than 30 km or so down the highway. When tested he RES+ terminal on the CC module was getting a signal from the...

Set it to ohms. Switch the ignition off. Hold the negative wire to an earth point such as a bare bolt. Put the positive wire to terminal 87 (red/orange wire) on the relay. You should get a very high resistance reading- if its only a few ohms you have a short in the red/orange wire, the coil (...

Get a multimeter and check for an earth leak on the red wire from the EFI relay. You can buy a cheap, good enough, multimeter from Bunnings for about $26 if you don't already have one.

I've never done this on a Holden but on other , more modern cars , I change the oil with a vacuum pump/ used oil tank suction tool using a nylon tube down the dipstick. If you have one of these , and can make an airtight connection somewhere in the oil pump discharge line (like say the...

Crap thing to get at , but the oil pick up screen could be blocked.

You don't have to remove the door card, the up/down switch just clips into the door and can be easily pulled out. The green and blue wires are connected to the back of it. The problem won't be a faulty wire- if the window isn't stuck in the guide rails, it will be bad plugs/switches and dry...

Yes. And the channels go below the bottom of the window opening. Check the voltage available to the green and blue wires at that switch. The green wire powers the actuator up. GMH require that 10V be available when measured to earth at this switch to power the actuators.

The back passenger window has the longest cable runs, lowest supply voltage and generally fails first. I lube my window tracks regularly with silicon and try to exercise them often to stop them sticking. If it's stuck you can try and force it by carefully applying a solid 12V supply to the...

Interesting, there's a way around the cluster old burn out problem : https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/tripin.994/page-2

The VN cluster won't work with some VS inputs like the VSS speed input. Basically GMH moved their car control systems forward a generation between VN/VP and VR/VS.

Yep. vq rat was last here in July 2014.