Oils and Things, Oil Tech Discussion

[losh1971]

There is this fix for minor oil consumption on LS engines.

Then you can go back to running the 5W

Even with 230k on the clock?

 

[Immortality]

Even more so. Older motors will have more blowby than new tight motors so more oil will go through the pcv system.

Manuals generally tend to suffer more also if you engine brake (and why wouldn't you) as you create high intake vacuum which will pull more on the pcv system.

 

[losh1971]

So even at 230k the better choice is still factory spec oil?

 

[Immortality]

I thought we were talking about baffles in the rocker cover for the pcv?

 

[losh1971]

Kinda both, I thought Fu may not have known I have a fairly high km engine compared to some.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Why would it matter? The ventilation system is the ventilation system. It’s only going to improve or solve a problem you have. It doesn’t involve new parts and more money.

I did PCV improvements on several Alloytecs with high kms and saw only benefits and improvements.

I’ll be doing it on my LS1 and that’s got 300 on it.

 

[losh1971]

Think you misunderstood my point wouldn't a car with higher kms and looser tolerances be better off with a 10w rather than factory spec oil?

I will have a look at the vid in more detail when I finally change the RC gaskets and do the mod then. Apparently they were weeping when it went for a safety inspection. This was two years ago and I can't see any oil so haven't bothered fitting gaskets I bought soon after.

 

[greenacc]

Think you misunderstood my point wouldn't a car with higher kms and looser tolerances be better off with a 10w rather than factory spec oil?

I will have a look at the vid in more detail when I finally change the RC gaskets and do the mod then. Apparently they were weeping when it went for a safety inspection. This was two years ago and I can't see any oil so haven't bothered fitting gaskets I bought soon after.

The 5w and 10w numbers are the cold viscosity. These are mostly relevant to your winter morning starts not how well it runs on long drives.. If you are interested in running the oil which is best for your high km engine you probably need to look more at the hot rating. That's the 30,40,50 number, because blow by and worn bearings are going to cause you more trouble when the engine is hot than when it's cold.
Pressure readings don't tell you anything about film strength either.
So run an oil that starts smoothly and stays smooth on your two hour summer trips hunting for 95 or fire bricks or whatever.

 

[losh1971]

The 5w and 10w numbers are the cold viscosity. These are mostly relevant to your winter morning starts not how well it runs on long drives.. If you are interested in running the oil which is best for your high km engine you probably need to look more at the hot rating. That's the 30,40,50 number, because blow by and worn bearings are going to cause you more trouble when the engine is hot than when it's cold.
Pressure readings don't tell you anything about film strength either.
So run an oil that starts smoothly and stays smooth on your two hour summer trips hunting for 95 or fire bricks or whatever.

Then like Mort said I will stick to 10w 40 and keep doing what I'm doing.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Think you misunderstood my point wouldn't a car with higher kms and looser tolerances be better off with a 10w rather than factory spec oil?

I will have a look at the vid in more detail when I finally change the RC gaskets and do the mod then. Apparently they were weeping when it went for a safety inspection. This was two years ago and I can't see any oil so haven't bothered fitting gaskets I bought soon after.

Yeah I get that, but your saying you loose oil and this is a simple fix for a known cause of it.